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The Palace

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Wall With a View 

The Palace Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 5,958'
Location: 40.6923, -105.379 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 97,925
Administrators: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Dylan Kuhn on Oct 16, 2006  with updates from JFM
Forecast:
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
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Leaving The Palace on a snowy February evening.

Description 

A grotto of featured granite, some steep and overhanging, with mostly sport and a few mixed routes. There are walls facing all directions, so there will usually be both sun or shade available. Rock quality varies - having a helmet on for the occasional falling rock is not a bad idea.

Getting There 

It's about 15 miles up the canyon from Ted's Place (where CO Highway 14 turns off of CO 287), just past Mishawaka and the tunnel.

Parking


After the tunnel, park in the second pullout on the right (the first is immediately after the tunnel). It's important that the parking area can still be used as a slow-vehicle turnout. This pretty much requires parallel parking around the edge, even though diagonal parking might accomodate more vehicles. If there isn't room, please park in the first pullout next to the tunnel. A highway accident due to an overfilled pullout would not be good for the Palace.

River Crossing


The river crossing may be dangerous or impossible in high water - don't underestimate it. In low water, a series of rocks that heads downriver to an island, then across, can be navigated carefully.

Per JFM: since the floods of 2013, the river has shifted slightly in the area used to cross over to The Palace. The island described previously has merged with the north (far) shore. There is also a deeper, swifter channel (up to knee-deep even during low water!) about 3/4 across the river. Angling toward the confluence of the creek and the river proper, aim just left of the mouth of the creek for the shallowest possible route. Roll up those pants!

Climbing Season



Weather station 7.3 miles from here

105 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',5],['3 Stars',33],['2 Stars',43],['1 Star',18],['Bomb',2]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',4],['5.8',5],['5.9',14],['5.10',29],['5.11',36],['5.12',15],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in The Palace

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for The Palace:
Orange You Glad   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 1 pitch, 85'   The Poudre Face
Churchill Rejects   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 55'   The Chamber
B.A.H.   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   The Poudre Face
Cheerleaders Gone Hippie   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   The Poudre Face
Rapunzel, Rapunzel   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   The Citadel
The Scepter   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   The Scepter
Let Down Your Hair   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 65'   The Citadel
Jestor   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   The Chamber
Monstrosity   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Mineshaft Wall
Check Your Head   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   The Poudre Face
Route with a View   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 65'   Wall With a View
Road to Redemption   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 95'   The Chamber
Dear Slabby   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   The Palace Pages
Armor Plated   5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Mineshaft Wall
Death and Disfiguration   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 55'   Mineshaft Wall
Golden Harvest    5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   The Lion's Den (aka Sunday ...
Stanley's Steamer   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   The Lion's Den (aka Sunday ...
Sporting Green   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   The Palace Pages
Red Hot Space Suit   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 85'   Red Wall
Small Fry   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 45'   The Chamber
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in The Palace

Featured Route For The Palace
Rock Climbing Photo: Jay on GH.

Golden Harvest 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a  Colorado : Fort Collins : ... : The Lion's Den (aka Sunday ...
After a little Autumn harvest, this crack is now pretty obvious. Bust straight up the right and then left-facing feature to the 4 inch crack. Continue with some very nice jamming to the top of the buttress. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in Colorado

Photos of The Palace Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: A beautiful sight from Crystal Wall pullout in Aut...
A beautiful sight from Crystal Wall pullout in Aut...
Rock Climbing Photo: OK, someone had a lot of spare time on their hands...
OK, someone had a lot of spare time on their hands...
Rock Climbing Photo: See comment 'description of beta shot'.
BETA PHOTO: See comment 'description of beta shot'.
Rock Climbing Photo: Making our way across in reasonable conditions.
Making our way across in reasonable conditions.
Rock Climbing Photo: Mineshaft Wall.
Mineshaft Wall.
Rock Climbing Photo: Good view of the Scepter and the Citadel.
Good view of the Scepter and the Citadel.
Rock Climbing Photo: Art on Rapunzel at the Citadel, the Palace.
Art on Rapunzel at the Citadel, the Palace.

Comments on The Palace Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 13, 2017
By ABaxter
From: Estes Park, CO
Dec 26, 2007
Check out Sam Shannon's Palace Rock Guide, intermittently available at Jax and REI.
By desbien
From: seattle,wa
May 6, 2008
Anyone know if the river is crossable right now?
By Sam Miller
From: Boulder, Colorado
May 16, 2008
I heard of a 13a somewhere. Beta anyone? Is it worth working?
By Dusty
From: Fort Collins
Oct 20, 2009
Does anyone know anything about the climb immediately to the left Sporting Green? I climbed this the other day and was curious about the name, grade, FA, etc.
By Spencer Anderson
From: Fort Collins, CO
Dec 3, 2009
Dusty, in the last guide book it was still listed as a project, 13?
By beavs
From: Ft. Collins, CO
Dec 18, 2009
The route is called Obituary, 13a (FA-Derek Peavey).
By Dusty
From: Fort Collins
Jan 11, 2010
Great. Thanks, Beavs.
By beavs
From: Ft. Collins, CO
Jan 15, 2010
Anytime. By the way, did you come away with a bloody finger?
By Dusty
From: Fort Collins
Jan 22, 2010
Bloodied up the left index finger on the first attempt, so I taped it on subsequent attempts.
By Spencer Anderson
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jan 22, 2010
Hey Dusty and Beavs, how fun is Obituary? I need a new project closer to home.
By beavs
From: Ft. Collins, CO
Jan 25, 2010
I honestly can't remember much about it (it's been years now and I have a bad memory!). There aren't a lot of routes that hard around here to choose from, so I would say it's worth working. It has a definite crux fingerlockish move, bring tape. Good luck!
By Dusty
From: Fort Collins
Jan 29, 2010
Spencer, Obituary is great, one of the best at the Palace. It has cool movement: it starts with finger locks and liebacks and moves into big moves on good holds. There is a definite crux but it does stay with you beyond the crux. I would recommend it. There are also several worthy .12/.13 climbs at upper echelon if you haven't scoped that out.
By paul moll
Jul 15, 2010
Anyone have any info. on the river crossing for The Palace? ...or where there might be good alternate options for crossing up or downstream to access these crags? July 15th.
By Brian S
Jul 28, 2010
The best bet for crossing in the summer is a boat.
By Cam Reade
Sep 14, 2011
For personal reference - 45 min. drive from my house to The Palace parking and about the same from CSU.
By Ely Finucane
From: Lakewood, Colorado
Jun 19, 2014
Looking to head to the Poudre this weekend...could anyone give a condition report on the creek crossing to The Palace? Please and thank you.
By shane hickman
From: steamboat springs, CO
Apr 10, 2016
Lost my hat here :( It's a full brimmed, khaki mountain gear hat. Lmk if ya find it.
By WalkingEagle
Aug 27, 2016
Can you camp up in The Palace? Or can not leave my car in the slow vehicle turnoff overnight?
By AJ Cohen
From: Fort Collins, CO
Apr 1, 2017
RIVER FLOW REPORTS:

poudrerockreport.com/streamflo...

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4/2/17: Back from the Palace today
CACHE LA POUDRE AT CANYON MOUTH NEAR FORT COLLINS = river height 2.99 ft at ~49 cfs.

The deepest parts crossing the river were just below the knee (I'm 5'8''), but that was just for the last 15-20 feet or so.

--------

4/8/17: Just went again yesterday, flow was at 47.1 cfs, depth at 2.82 ft, easily passable, just below knee height at the deepest section.

--------

4/15/17: Went again yesterday and today (camped overnight). River depth is at 3.14ft, and 117cfs now. Crossing is now becoming much more difficult. Watch a woman get swept in (she was fine), and a few dogs who almost didn't make it. Balls deep at one part.

--------
8/23/17: My wife climbed here yesterday, first time since the spring, the river is back down to 131cfs and 3.19ft and is now strong, but passable again for the season. The flow should only decrease from here until the spring. Ill finish here with my intermittent river updates since we've covered both seasons now and it gives a general idea of timing for safe river wading (although may vary year to year).
By hunterkonchan
Jul 13, 2017
Crossed into The Palace on 7/11/17, very deep and fast. Was able to get across and got wet above my rump. Was not able to go back across, had to catch a ride on a raft, and dropped us off on the other side further downstream. Recommend fixing a line to get back across, but keep it high so the rafters don't get clothes lined.

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