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Painted Crack Boulder
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The Painted Crack 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c Hueco: V-easy Font: 3

   
Type:  Trad, Boulder, 15'
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c Hueco: V0 Font: 4 [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 1,106
Submitted By: Adam Stackhouse on Mar 7, 2007  with updates from Logan Swartz and 1 more

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (24)
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BETA PHOTO: The Painted Crack

Current San Diego County Advisories MORE INFO >>>

The Climb 

The hand/fist crack that splits the boulders.

Protection 

#3 or 4 camalots, or just a boulder pad.


Comments on The Painted Crack Add Comment
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By Dean Olson
Nov 1, 2011
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Challenging jams in the middle. Key right toe halfway up on face. Great way to break down crack jamming form.

Not sure why pro is listed here. I would have just liked a crash pad.
By Chris Kehoe
Jul 12, 2015
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c  V0- 4-

Probably my favorite crack at Santee. This can definitely eat a bit of your back hand.
By jeffblankman
From: San Diego, Ca
Jan 19, 2016

This is a GREAT, jammable crack. If your crack tech. is solid it should offer no problems whatsoever. Not too high, and the landing is good. If you've no pad or spotter, do it in yer approach shoes (great size for the foot jams) if you're nervous about peeling off: hurts a lot less than landing in climbing shoes!
By Safty Third
From: San Diego, CA
Sep 10, 2016

Just relax on the hand jams, and be patient slotting the feet. If you're new to jamming maybe run some laps on the 5.7 hand crack (don't use any face holds for the feet, just keep them in the crack) in dog pile and really get the footwork down. After you do this one run up masochist, another one that will really test you on solid jams while you work the feet out.

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