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16 - The Owl
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The Owl Bypass 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Unknown.
Page Views: 850
Submitted By: Blitzo on Oct 24, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>

Description 

From the right side climb a 5.9 jamcrack to a belay under the roof.
Either rappel or do a 5.9 traverse left.

Protection 

Pro to 3".


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By Osprey Overhang
From: ...
Dec 12, 2009

A must do adventure. I take a #5 friend for the bottom, three #2 friends as most of the climb is this size, two #3 friends, and a #3.5 friend plus slings. Rappel to the ground with two ropes from under the roof, but only if you've climbed it before. If its your first time, then traverse left and up choss to the top.
By Will S
From: Joshua Tree
May 23, 2010

A virtually unknown gem, easily on par with other "classic" valley pitches of the grade. I rarely tape for anything (and didn't on this), but heartily recommend taping for this pitch. Closer in texture to Vedauwoo than typical valley granite. Very high quality and longish pitch. Skip the p2/exit left, it's short, dirty, has loose a couple loose flakes/plates, the rap will put you away from your stuff at the base, and it just isn't worth the time. If you do chose to do the p2, a fixed pin halfway across the traverse provides pro, and you may want a couple pieces from 1"-2" for the lower section off the stance from the new anchor up to the roof where it begins to traverse.
By Osprey Overhang
From: ...
May 30, 2010

Anything that is trundled while climbing pitch two will make its way down to the pullout and land right on or next to your vehicle! This is the choss section encountered after traversing under the roof. Climb this pitch lightly, and park at the far east side of the small pullout.
By Dave Alden
From: San Diego, CA
Feb 28, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13

Incredible views and formations of rock! Determined to send the roof one of these days.
By Alexey
From: San Jose
May 7, 2012

1st pitch is about 150ft. 80 m rope bring you to the base if you decided not to go for the 2nd pitch.
Exceptional climb. take gear from red aliens to #2 camelot, especially #.75 and #1
By David Aguasca!
From: New York
Sep 14, 2016

Pro to 3" doesn't cut it. You'll benefit from triples in .75 and 1 camalots. Approaching the base of the wall is no joke, either; multiple precariously-stacked blocks guard the ledge at the bottom of the pitch, which in turn are guarded by a dirty one-move 5.8 slab traverse.

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