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The Overleaf 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 5,505
Submitted By: Ben Mottinger on Sep 9, 2001

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Double 60m rappel from the cable anchor barely mak...

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The Overleaf is a nice trad route up the whole dome. Start on the left side of the dome and locate a right-facing dihedral, and follow this feature for a long pitch to a fixed anchor. The route continues up to the summit of the dome or rap off here.


Standard rack to #4 Friend.

Photos of The Overleaf Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Eric coming up to the cable anchor on the right si...
Eric coming up to the cable anchor on the right si...
Rock Climbing Photo: Adam climbs through the Overleaf crux.  Nice work,...
Adam climbs through the Overleaf crux. Nice work,...
Rock Climbing Photo: Damien leading out the roof.
Damien leading out the roof.
Rock Climbing Photo: Janice just over the roof.
Janice just over the roof.
Rock Climbing Photo: Overleaf follows the obvious line up the dihedral ...
BETA PHOTO: Overleaf follows the obvious line up the dihedral ...

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 23, 2016
By Anonymous Coward
Dec 11, 2001

Question about the fixed anchor at the top of the first pitch: is this anchor above the roof, or is it found by traversing right under the roof and then up the flake? A bolted anchor above the roof would be nice. Otherwise, you might have some burly rope drag for about 30 feet to a good anchor spot. Or, if you choose to belay right above the roof, using a little crack out left and the crack just above the roof, you end up being in your second's way as he/she is pulling the roof. Good route.
By Bryson Slothower
Dec 27, 2001

The anchor is above the roof, put long slings on gear below the roof and you will not get rope drag going to the anchor in one pitch. There is also another bolted anchor past the roof out to the right on the face in a big dish. This is a bit lower than the anchor on O.L. if you do get rope drag. This may seem like pretty stout 5.8 to some people.
By shad O'Neel
Jul 23, 2002

Remember the roof moves being cool. The slab below the roof made me scratch my head a bit. Also, seem to recall some rope drag issue, but the belay could be set up easily anywhre after the roof.
From: Englewood, CO
May 5, 2003

This is one of the best trad routes I've ever done. Great moderate climbing most of the way and bomber gear placments. That roof is pretty burly if you take it out straight up. Made me sketch a bit, but there's a nice chockstone you can sling just under the roof for some peace of mind. Didn't try the traverse out right, but it look significantly easier. This is one long pitch! Did it with a 50 m rope and my belayer had to climb a good portion of the lower route just so I could make it to the anchors. Man I gotta get me a 60m!!!!!
Sep 11, 2003

I was not amazed by this climb but it's an ok way to summit. I would definately recommend a 60 meter rope and lots of long slings. I would try to do the climb in 2 pitches. For comfort you'll want a BD 3.5 and 4 cmas but ok with 3 and under.

The trick to the first pitch is to start your belay as high as possible. I would say go under right under the roof (5.9 possibly) and use 4ft at the pinacle of the roof to elimate drag. You'll need the 3.5 and 4 coming around the right side of the roof to the right sided dihedral/crack. Blow by the bolts to the right side and go all the way up the dihedral to a belay with some cable. Belay there, build one if you don't get all the way.

Second pitch ruins the route its runout (25ft) on super easy bathtubs. Belay just below at the summit. Walk off the back and turn left (north) and walk off the gully.
By Larry Shaw
Jun 12, 2004
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

The roof moves are fun and there is a thank god jug a foot over the lip. The roof moves were harder than the traverse right but the traverse seemed more sustained and runout near the top.
By Randy Carmichael
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 30, 2004
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

The roof direct is definitely on the hard side of 5.8.
Jul 7, 2004

Did the roof variation of this, which I would definately recommend. It has better moves, protection, and rope work. Pulling the roof itself is a little stiff, 5.8+ and out of character for the rest of the climb which goes 5.6-7
By BWpete
May 13, 2005
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I really enjoyed the climb. It is great for newer climbers either for lead or seconding. I found that the roof moves were rather easy, maybe an 8, but I wouldnt say 8+, the moves are just a little comitting. I climbed up to the roof, brought up my second and then climbed around the roof. Someone left 2 well-placed nuts there, and I think they are pretty much fixed, so if you can't get the roof, then you can bail without leaving your own gear. I would say to rap off the cable pot hole sling, as the summet isn't that great, but if you do that you will need 2 ropes.
By Buff Johnson
Jan 21, 2006
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I wouldn't go into this climb with a 5.8 mindset. (I thought 2 stars @ 5.9)

The direct line up to the roof is a grade harder, expect a series of sustained 5.9 moves to get under the roof. I wouldn't consider this section to be similar in technical rating as other trad routes in the area, such as the Arch Rock Route. But this is still a decent route; just expect a little sandbagger section.

I would offer to do the walk-off as you can’t really see if someone is coming up the roof from the cable rap position & voice command can be difficult to hear. (Post edit 2007 - used 2x 60M ropes to the ground from the cable, the rap does not go over a leader; so I'd revise & say this descent is cool)
By Chris Mack
Jan 23, 2006
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I would highly agree that the line that takles the roof head on is harder then 5.8. Would have to say mid .9ish. I would also say that there is definitely a right and a wrong way to tackle that roof, and if you do it the wrong way, it's going to feel way harder than it should.
By Buff Johnson
Jul 16, 2007
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Went back and redid the section on seconding & figured out what my problem was. I'll revise to go to 3 stars & 5.8+ for the direct line through the overhang, a physically great section for the crux, wonderfully fluid hand jams. A #5 is a piece you'll not regret bringing along.
By Eric Haye
From: Boulder
Sep 30, 2007

I agree with Mark's last statement. I found getting to just below the roof to be a bit tricky. With knowing that rope drag would be an issue I chose to set up a belay at that point and then chose to finish going right (easier than it looks). If I get the chance to do it again, I would attempt the roof but definitely challenging for an 8+.
By Unassigned User
Jun 29, 2008

My partner Tom led over the roof with no problems, however I couldn't get my sorry butt up it even with Tom pulling on the rope. Pulling myself up with nothing for my legs definitely seemed harder than 5.8 to me. Tom didn't find any anchors near the roof and climbed to the anchors at the top of the route. With communication issues and a cam not far above the roof, going around to the right was not an option for me. I anchored about 15 feet below the roof while Tom rappeled down to me from the top and just made it below the roof on the 60m rope. We then tied our two ropes together to rappel down to the road. I hope to get this one another try.
By Rob Davies UK
From: Cheshire, UK
May 8, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

In the UK, we would call this an "outcrop grade". Surely a harder rating would be given if it were on a longer route or protection weren't so good, as the move round the overlap is a real pig. Even in Yorkshire this would get VS 5a. Easy enough to belay on nuts / cams below the overhang to avoid rope drag on the crux, so fixed gear is unnecessary.
By Rich F.
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Oct 2, 2009
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Led with Sarah today. Challenging crux for me, but protected it with a #2 cam in the crack. Rested (hung) on the rope while I figured out the moves through the roof. Once I figured out the moves, it wasn't too bad for me. Sarah climbed it in tennis shoes :-]
By Phil Lauffen
From: The Bubble
Jun 27, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Wow, 5.8+? I'm surprised that's the consensus! I thought getting up to and pulling over the roof would be at least 5.9 on here. It definitely stymied me for a while (I didn't fall). There's a great rest up underneath there though....
By Tom Fralich
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jun 3, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Awkward climbing with annoying rope management. Couldn't find a way to keep the rope from jamming at the roof. I even climbed down and unclipped the last 2 pieces before the roof and placed a cam right at the lip to try and keep it running smooth and it still jams. Didn't find this one very enjoyable. Moby Grape and some of the bolted lines are much more worthwhile.
By Owen Shepherd
Jun 16, 2015

I climbed this a few weeks ago and am curious if anyone knows what the route is above the final Overleaf anchor on the big overhang at the top of The Dome. I saw a couple of solid-looking bolts (three? I believe) that lead up the overhang.
Aug 23, 2016

Had to bail right before the roof. Left a #2 with a red extendable. If you got it out and are feeling gracious, PM me, and I'll pay for shipping and a six-pack of beer of your choice. Thanks.

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