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Unsorted Routes:

The Overhang 

Hueco: V5-6 Font: 6C+

Type:  Boulder
Original:  Hueco: V5-6 Font: 6C+ [details]
FA: Knower, 1999
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 3,386
Submitted By: Jay Knower on Nov 26, 2006

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BETA PHOTO: stickin the deadpoint


About 100 yards east of Calm, The Overhang can be found in a leaf-filled corridor. Start sitting at the bottom of the steepest part of the corridor and climb directly out tiered roofs. The right wall is most definitely off.

The Overhang was attempted for years until a small block was pulled off with hand pressure. The removal of this block created a hold and allowed this problem to go. For a while, the block still sat at the base, and it was possible to put the block back in, thereby making the problem much, much harder. It was sort of like two for the price of one. These days, the block is long gone.

This is a classic problem on good stone with a worthwhile top out. When climbing on this, you almost forget you're at High Cliff.



Photos of The Overhang Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Variation 1- huge deadpoint to three finger pocket...
BETA PHOTO: Variation 1- huge deadpoint to three finger pocket...
Rock Climbing Photo: The nice big ledge at the beginning of the route(s...
BETA PHOTO: The nice big ledge at the beginning of the route(s...
Rock Climbing Photo: The red circle indicates where the crimp broke.  T...
The red circle indicates where the crimp broke. T...
Rock Climbing Photo: The Overhang follows the red line. This is probabl...
BETA PHOTO: The Overhang follows the red line. This is probabl...
Rock Climbing Photo: Variation 2- sharp flake and then out (right wall ...
BETA PHOTO: Variation 2- sharp flake and then out (right wall ...

Comments on The Overhang Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 17, 2017
By Peter Dodge
From: Duluth, MN
Dec 8, 2006

Today, unfortunately, a key crimp broke off this route. This makes this route much, much harder again. It still seems possible, but will require LOTS of work.
Now, you'll have a complete deadpoint to a very precise 2-3 finger pocket. The crimp allowed you to hit this before the pocket.
Good luck, and let us know when someone does it again.
By Jay Knower
From: Campton, NH
Dec 11, 2006

What hold broke?
By Peter Dodge
From: Duluth, MN
Dec 11, 2006

When you start in the cove and move up to the big ledge, the next hold used to be a small crimp. From this crimp, you went to the two finger pocket. I'll put a picture up to show you and then I'll delete it later.
By Jay Knower
From: Campton, NH
Dec 11, 2006

Hmmmm...maybe the beta on this thing is in a constant state of change.
By James Schroeder
From: Sauk County, WI
Dec 26, 2006

Spent Saturday, the 23rd up here working stuff with Pete. It is possible to go to a hold 6" to the right of the right-hand handhold circled in white from the jug. After that a left hand "slap and bump" deposits one's left hand on a crimp 12" up and right from the pocket circled in green. The wetness and my own weakness prevented any further progress, but it seems a path has been found...

Pete - feel free to leave that pic up with the holds circled...
By Peter Dodge
From: Duluth, MN
Dec 29, 2006

Amazingly, I talked with my friend Mike Taylor yesterday and he said he managed to stick the complete deadpoint from the huge bucket (blue circle in pic) to the pocket (green circle). I have no idea how he did this at all, but it shows that the direct way is still (somehow) possible. He didn't manage to get the entire route, just that one move, so... the "new" first ascent of the direct route is still up for grabs.
By Peter Dodge
From: Duluth, MN
Mar 30, 2007

I was working this cave yesterday and I was able to complete the route by detouring right to a flake (white circle in picture). It was harder than the original but not by a lot. I was also able to stick the dead point to the pocket a couple times. I believe the crux of the direct route is not going to be the move to the pocket, but the move after. Good Luck!
By Leveille
From: Appleton, WI
May 14, 2007

Mike Taylor sent it on Saturday with the deadpoint to pocket deal. It was an awesome send and he was very happy with it.
By Seth Carlson
From: Wausau, Wisconsin
May 23, 2008
rating: V5-6 6C+

For sure the coolest problem in the park. Those crimpers and pocket will reach out and bite you if you don't bite them first.
By Peter Dodge
From: Duluth, MN
Jun 26, 2008

I think there can be two separate routes that take you through the roof in the cave. One route goes the three finger pocket after the main ledge (very big deadpoint) and then exits on the left side of the arete on the top-out section. The other goes right to a sharp flake and then works out to the right side of the arete on the top-out section. That may confuse things more, but that is what I got out of it. I put pictures up showing the two ways.
By Brooks-C
From: Portland, OR
Jun 18, 2009

video of this problem (both variations)
By Balza7891
From: Appleton, WI
Jul 14, 2009

Enjoyed the video, nice work.
By mikeet
From: versailles, ky
Aug 17, 2009

its pretty fun to do the "left variation" but use the "right variation" ending pretty sweet
By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
Apr 13, 2011
rating: V6 7A

Love this problem. This and Calm Like a Bomb are the best in the park.
By Sean Glendon
Sep 9, 2017

That dead point is tough man.. also the jug shelf is sounding pretty hollow these days, the whole thing flexed under my partners weight today. I don't think its coming down anytime soon though
By Sean Glendon
5 days ago

I think the left wall should be off after you have both feet on the starting block, putting your left foot out on the left wall makes the dead point of the left variation easier for sure. No big deal though the left wall only helps a little

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