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Master of Rack T 
Outer Shadow aka Morannon, The T,S 
Waste Knot  S 

The Outer Shadow aka Morannon 

YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c

Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 120'
Original:  YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c [details]
FA: Paul Muehl, Pete Delannoy, & Gene Larson 1983
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,232
Submitted By: el guapo on Jul 16, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (20)
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BETA PHOTO: Morannon on Tower of Teeth


A steep and balancy start that leads to a beautiful face crawling out of the trees with great positioning and nice exposure. One of the nicest belay ledges on the entire formation! A 70M gets you to the ground with a bit to spare, so use caution when descending.


South West side of the Ephel Duath. First bolt is about 12 feet off the ground behind a pine tree and right of the cleft that seperates Ephel Duath and the Guardian. 1 70M rope gets you down with a bit to spare.


9 bolts and chain anchors

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By andrewburr
Jul 25, 2013

I ***think*** you may rebolted an old existing 1983 muehl route called 'the outer shadow'. did you find a lone old bolt up there near the top? (its visible from the ground)
By el guapo
Aug 1, 2013

Andrew, If I recall correctly, the Muehl route started in the cleft between Tower of Teeth and The Guardian and worked up the arete via flakes and crack systems and eventually diagonaled, left to right, across Morannon at approx 2/3 height. There is a climbable section 5 to 8 feet right of this intersection that looks like it would take small wires. It looks hard, exciting and definately in the flavor of Muehl. I hope that helps.
By andrewburr
Aug 4, 2013

Fair enough, however, where is the Outer Shadow bolt in relation to your new route? Did you guys remove it, replace it, use it, leave it, or just wish you never saw it? Not trying to bust your balls, just trying to understand where the 2 routes are in relation to the other. Maybe if you draw in Outer Shadow on your topo that would help.

As for clerical bookkeeping, it's my understanding that the Towers of the Teeth refers to the entire ridge or at least the western extent including (Snaga, Narchost, Carhost, Guardian, etc.) and the formation which holds Outer Shadow, your route, Master of Rack, and Waste Not goes by the name Ephel Duath even though as in your case the route tops out on a some what isolated spire/summit.

More than happy to talk offline, message me if you want.

On a side note, do you or Slichter know anything about the origins of the other 'newer' bolted routes on the Towers of the Teeth?

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