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The Other Side
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The Other Side 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 65'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Rick Bradshaw and Scott Beguin
Page Views: 446
Submitted By: Scott Beguin on Sep 20, 2007

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Description 

Start on some bad rock to a committing first clip then up onto good rock and some thin and balancy dihedral moves past two more bolts, then gain the slight overhang to a no hands rest on a shelf and then step left and continue up the arete and some stellar rock to the humongous pocket at the top for the anchor clip.

Location 

This route is the second bolted route to the left of Left Wing, (maybe 75 yards).

Protection 

7 bolts to a 2 bolt springer anchor. Stick clip recommended.


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By Matt Price
Sep 20, 2007
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Except for the bad "rock" you have to get past to start this climb, its one of the best climbs I've done at Coxcomb so far (haven't been to poutrygeist). A variety of cool moves with route options.
By Gojira
Mar 6, 2017

The mud band at the bottom of this climb is like decaying adobe and chunks of the mud band shear off trying to get going. I would recommend at a minimum stick clipping bolt 1 and going from there. I ended up pulling off the rope to get to hands on the obvious lower blocks on top of the mud band and went from there. A solid route with a cool twist to it.

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