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The Other One 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Chris Alber, 2000
Page Views: 4,598
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Nov 12, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (173)
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Climber Karl Manteuffel on "The Other One&quo...

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  • Description 

    The Other One fires up the prow of the Surprising Crag. It's the rightmost route on the West Face, just around the arete left of Choss Temple Pilots.

    Jug haul to a good stance and high clip just before the crux. A clean, left-facing corner leading to a crisp edge and a pair of friction pads kicks up an interesting crux. Dust it with a high step. A slab to the anchors finishes the thing.

    This has good rock and fun moves, and none of the holds appeared to be manufactured.

    Protection 

    Eight draws and a rope.


    Photos of The Other One Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: The Other One.  The bottom part of the route and t...
    BETA PHOTO: The Other One. The bottom part of the route and t...
    Rock Climbing Photo: The crux of the climb.
    The crux of the climb.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Racing the thunderstorm!
    Racing the thunderstorm!
    Rock Climbing Photo: Chris flashing the horns - right after the redpoin...
    Chris flashing the horns - right after the redpoin...
    Rock Climbing Photo: The grizzled old man can still do a 5.11.  Channel...
    The grizzled old man can still do a 5.11. Channel...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Approaching the crux.
    Approaching the crux.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Great position - perfect day!
    Great position - perfect day!
    Rock Climbing Photo: at the top
    at the top
    Rock Climbing Photo: Mike Amato at the fourth clip.
    Mike Amato at the fourth clip.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Peter Dillon at the crux overhang.
    Peter Dillon at the crux overhang.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Peter Dillon on the pumpy lower section of the rou...
    Peter Dillon on the pumpy lower section of the rou...

    Comments on The Other One Add Comment
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    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 21, 2017
    By Anonymous Coward
    Nov 14, 2001

    But would it be categorically unfair to dismiss the area as offensive because it's egregiously over-bolted?
    By Richard M. Wright
    From: Lakewood, CO
    Nov 14, 2001

    Touche! While I will never have the steady mind control of our head-pointing masters, even I am committed to the idea that part of what we do is to play a mental game. My recent visit to the Sport Park also uncovered very little need for those superfluous synapses.
    By Aron Quiter
    Administrator
    From: Oakland, CA
    Sep 6, 2002

    One of the only climbs that I know I'm going to miss about Sport Park. I don't really think the first couple of moves are .10d, but I think this is actually an 11a move over the top roof.
    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    May 19, 2003
    rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

    After getting rained/hailed on at Castle Rock on Sunday then walking up to the choss at Mountain Rose crag with threatening rain again, I and my partner decided to go walk up to sport park at dusk and check the place out & see what all of the noise is about. We went with no guide, so we didn't know what routes we might try or what kind of chip & glue we might see. In the fading light (this route being done on a cloudy night at 8:45PM on May 18, the sun having set 15-20 min ago) I wound up for this route.When I was done, I called it 5.10c. I am guessing, but the point is that the route is seriously over-graded.On the bright side, the holds were all natural (or at least what I could see in that light- without the chalk on them, they would have been exceptionally hard to find). The crux was pulling over the round bulge onto slabby holds and I was relieved not to have found a deep finger pocket there- one which would have changed the climb totally.The line was reasonably bolted and due to it's position on the arete/end of the buttress was not seemingly crowded. If all of the lines at the Sport Park had been done in this fashion, nobody would bother bagging on the place for anything more than the blatant over-rating of the climbs.

    5.10c in the dark. This is not an exaggeration- it's how I did the route.
    By Erik L Ahrn_
    Oct 27, 2003

    Probably my favorite route in the Sport Park....
    By Nathan Gray
    Mar 24, 2007

    I pulled the last roof with a little right hand crimp and reached up to a high sloping left hand. This felt harder than 10c...perhaps I botched the beta? I would agree there was NO other climbing on the route harder than 10a, but what the crap, is there an easier way to pull onto that slab?
    By icsteveoh
    From: salt lake city, UT
    Aug 15, 2007
    rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

    You don't think that right hand crimp was chipped?
    By rob bauer
    From: Golden, CO
    Sep 20, 2009

    Yeah, what IS that other route rated? Harder than I usually try, but it seemed so inviting after The Other One. I got the last clip and went nowhere. I tried going straight up and failed miserably. (My partner deviously stepped up on the arete and crawled onto the right face and finished.) Straight up "power crimping," wide feet on the overhanging wall and using the high sloper on the face got me nowhere. (Neither did the sketchy slapping along the arete.) It would be nice to know what my limit was.
    By Mike Tsuji
    From: Boulder, CO
    Sep 26, 2009

    My honest opinion was the route was 10 with a single 11a move pulling the last bulge. Fun stuff.
    By Paul Donald Andrews
    From: Nederland, Co.
    Aug 28, 2010
    rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

    That other route to the left is Shakedown Street, 12.c, according to this source. The Other One is a quality climb in great position. We got some incredible shots in profile with massive, towering cumulus above and the colors of the rock really popping. I'll post as soon as I get my camera back. The crux moves took me some figuring out. Some guy who was free-soloing 8s tried to give me the beta, but I tuned him out. For what it's worth, a guy I saw flash some 11d to the left, one of the roof routes, had a harder time on this climb. I would concur that this is the best route on Surprising Slab.
    By keith story
    From: Boulder, CO
    Aug 31, 2010
    rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

    Enjoyable, to say the least. After some beta, I found the moves weren't too outrageous. The crux is REALLY tricky if you don't know where that crimp is. I tried using the sloper to the right and felt like pulling my hair out. Sturdy holds, regardless of possible chipping.
    By Larry Shaw 1
    From: Boulder, CO
    Aug 21, 2017

    I liked the climbing on the lower section with slightly overhanging moves on juggy holds at about 9+ to one harder move at the crux. It's a fun one.

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