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The Other Ice Climb 

WI4 M5

   
Type:  Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 2 pitches, 300', Grade II
Original: WI4 M5 [details]
FA: Unknown
Season: Winter
Page Views: 313
Submitted By: Nate Brown on Feb 4, 2015

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BETA PHOTO: Cragganmore

Description 

Another route that must have been climbed several times over the years. It would make a lousy summer rock climb. However, when filled with water ice, the gully makes for an awesome winter climb.

Start by climbing under the Swordfish Lipstick chockstone. 25 meters of steep snow and low angle water ice is followed by 25 more meters of superb steep mixed climbing on good rock and water ice. Pitch 2: easy climbing with a stout mixed crux of about twenty feet or so.

Location 

Climb the gully that marks the start of Swordfish Lipstick. About eighty feet west from "The Ice Climb"

Protection 

Ice screws, medium sized rack, some pins (the hatchety type seemed the best)


Photos of The Other Ice Climb Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Ice in there
Ice in there
Rock Climbing Photo: The bottom of the gully
BETA PHOTO: The bottom of the gully

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