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Juniper Butte
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Original Route, The T 

The Original Route 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Trevor Bowman and Emily Reinsel 12/23/14
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 412
Submitted By: Trevor Bowman on Feb 28, 2015

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Emily jots a few notes in the register. The Sittin...

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This pleasant moderate follows an attractive corner for two short pitches of varied climbing up the southeast face. This was the first known route on the butte.

P1-Start up a short band of loose rock, enter the clean, slabby corner that starts off-finger and widens through fists, end on a large ledge. Make a gear belay from good cracks with finger-hand sizes. (5.9, 70')

P2-Move right 15' and head up a short handcrack in a corner with unique pockets on the left wall. This ends in a short loose bit immediately below the expansive summit plateau. Rig a gear belay. There are twin cold shuts for a rappel anchor just left (southwest) of where the pitch tops out. (5.8, 30')

Hike west a ways over slabs and slots to the high point (hard to really discern). We left a register in a cairn at what we figured was the highest spot. The summit plateau is a cool spot to ramble around a bit.

Location 

A clean corner just a bit right (northeast) of the center of the southeast (roadside) face. Refer to the beta pictures. The approach is pretty obvious, up talus to the base in about 15 minutes from the car.

Protection 

(1x) .2-.4 (2x) .5-3 (1x) 4 BD C4 sizes, cold shut rap anchor on summit. 1 60m rope adequate.


Photos of The Original Route Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Emily leads P2 up a nice corner/crack with strange...
Emily leads P2 up a nice corner/crack with strange...
Rock Climbing Photo: Emily follows the clean corner of P1.
Emily follows the clean corner of P1.
Rock Climbing Photo: The 1st pitch, as seen from the base.
BETA PHOTO: The 1st pitch, as seen from the base.
Rock Climbing Photo: An overview of the Original Route with belays mark...
BETA PHOTO: An overview of the Original Route with belays mark...

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