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Routes in Juniper Butte
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Original Route, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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VOG Envy T C2 |
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| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Trevor Bowman and Emily Reinsel 12/23/14 |
| Page Views: | 1,866 total · 17/month |
| Shared By: | Trevor Bowman on Feb 28, 2015 |
| Admins: | slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
This pleasant moderate follows an attractive corner for two short pitches of varied climbing up the southeast face. This was the first known route on the butte.
P1-Start up a short band of loose rock, enter the clean, slabby corner that starts off-finger and widens through fists, end on a large ledge. Make a gear belay from good cracks with finger-hand sizes. (5.9, 70')
P2-Move right 15' and head up a short handcrack in a corner with unique pockets on the left wall. This ends in a short loose bit immediately below the expansive summit plateau. Rig a gear belay. There are twin cold shuts for a rappel anchor just left (southwest) of where the pitch tops out. (5.8, 30')
Hike west a ways over slabs and slots to the high point (hard to really discern). We left a register in a cairn at what we figured was the highest spot. The summit plateau is a cool spot to ramble around a bit.
P1-Start up a short band of loose rock, enter the clean, slabby corner that starts off-finger and widens through fists, end on a large ledge. Make a gear belay from good cracks with finger-hand sizes. (5.9, 70')
P2-Move right 15' and head up a short handcrack in a corner with unique pockets on the left wall. This ends in a short loose bit immediately below the expansive summit plateau. Rig a gear belay. There are twin cold shuts for a rappel anchor just left (southwest) of where the pitch tops out. (5.8, 30')
Hike west a ways over slabs and slots to the high point (hard to really discern). We left a register in a cairn at what we figured was the highest spot. The summit plateau is a cool spot to ramble around a bit.
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