|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 15 pitches, 2000', Grade IV|
|Original:||YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b R [details]|
|FA:||Antonio Gomez Bohorquez and Onofre Garcia|
|Season:||Winter (North American Summer)|
|Submitted By:||Karsten Duncan on Aug 29, 2010|
|Comments on The Original Route||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By David Trippett
From: Squamish, BC
Jun 17, 2011
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
The climbing can be very run out after the Repisa de las Flores
Lots of bottoming, flared cracks above pitch 10. The climbing is easier, but can get hard quickly if you find yourself off route. There are pitons and fixed gear everywhere, so really try and focus on following the fastest and easiest terrain as opposed to getting suckered up some pitch because of fixed gear.
a selection of medium/small stoppers and single cams from green alien to #4 Camalot will get you through fine. Small to medium offset aliens would be awesome for the upper bit, though not mandatory ( I'll never climb the Sphinx again without them). 8-10 runners and double 60m ropes are best, the route, and the pitches, tend to wander quite a bit.
Descent is very easy...scramble down to the lowest point in the saddle to the north. Look for a bunch of white cairns. The second station is a bit over 60m....but its there. We searched for it for 15 min. It's down and skiers left ~10m and sort of hidden...you'll do some down scrambling to get to it.
Amazing Rock. Amazing Route!
By Dmitriy Litvak
From: Pacifica, CA
Jul 31, 2011
We carried/hauled our sleeping bags to the bivy ledge. Unless you are a sado-masochist, I do not recommend this option. Most slower parties fix the lower pitches on the first day and climb the rest of the route the next day.
Nonetheless, I must say that it was fun to sleep on the ledge.
The next day, we threw our stuff down the wall. Totally illegal! And I was sorry I opted for this scenario as there were people below us.
Did a lot of damage to our gear. Tie your bag opening real well and make sure there is NOONE below. Better, DO NOT do it!
Descent was very tricky for us at night. We rapped down from the summit a short distance and walked just below the ridge till we had to straddle the ridge, a.k.a tail of Sphinx. We found cairns afterwards. Unfortunately we never found the 2nd set of anchors and had to rap from a boulder. We found a 3rd set of anchors which led us to dangerous slabs, somewhat. We rapped off a boulder again. The descent is loose!
Going skier´s left above the slabs sounds good, though we did not test it at night.
Oct 15, 2011
|We hauled a super light kit, maybe 20 lbs, with one sleeping bag and emerg blanket to share. The hauling was mellow with a skinny static line. Fixed 2 pitches one afternoon, then went to the big ledge the next day and fixed all our rope above the ledge, then jugged and finished the next day. Off and back to camp with daylight to spare. As others have mentioned, plenty of runout flared groove climbing up high. Hybrids would have been nice as the second set of small cams, but we managed without. We had the entire basecamp and wall to ourselves from taxi to taxi, in June of 2009. Great adventure.|
From: Santa Monica, Ca
Aug 19, 2012
Climbed this route 8/7 to 8/8 2012.
I would reccomend that if is your first time climbing the route that two days is a little brutal day one carrying the pack but it allows you to top out in sunshine and not have to rush the climb. We did it in two days and I have a very detailed report on my blog. A number 4,5 or 6 is completely unnecessary.
By mike sheridan
May 6, 2013
|A great climb! One day to hike up the approach, possibly a full day if the gate is closed and the farmers are not around to open it for a taxi. Excelent boulder to bivi under at the base of the rout that saves about 15 min of approaching from the flat camp area. One big cam is nice for the roof sections 4.5'' cam. Easy to finish in a day, the hard stuff is the first half.|