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Start Sucking T 

Start Sucking 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a C1+

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 3 pitches, 200', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a C1+ [details]
FA: John Rzeczycki & Kiley Miller, 12-31-1999 FFA John Rzeczycki & Ralph Ferrara
Page Views: 1,058
Submitted By: Brad Brandewie on Mar 9, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Ian below the summit cone bolt ladder.

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Whoever did the first ascent of this climb has a good eye. It’s a compelling line.

Pitch one – Climb up to a bolt and then out a series of small roofs on what turns into a beautiful hand crack. Continue up a right facing dihedral and then climb up and right past a bolt to a belay on a ledge. (5.9, C1)

Pitch two – Step left from the anchor and climb the crack past a fixed pin until you are perched below a 5-6 inch offwidth that diagonals up and right. Climb the wideness to a belay on the shoulder below the summit cone. (C1+)

Pitch three – Climb the bolt ladder to the summit. Bring a long cord to sling the summit. (C1)

Rap the route.

Protection 

Two sets of cams to #6 Camalot.
(or be prepared to run it out on the second pitch)



Photos of Start Sucking Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Ian McAlexander jugging pitch two.
Ian McAlexander jugging pitch two.
Rock Climbing Photo: John starting the second pitch in his top steps.
John starting the second pitch in his top steps.
Rock Climbing Photo: In the dihedral on the first pitch.  The second pi...
In the dihedral on the first pitch. The second pi...
Rock Climbing Photo: Getting to the good crack on the first pitch.
Getting to the good crack on the first pitch.
Rock Climbing Photo: John Glime wondering if the two pieces he has that...
John Glime wondering if the two pieces he has that...

Comments on Start Sucking Add Comment
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By John J. Glime
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Mar 9, 2009

This is a really nice tower. We thought we were going to be the first to climb it... on the approach, that beautiful crack really stood out. We were psyched. We got to the base, took a drink and a piss, looked around a little more... and "doh" we saw a bolt. Buzz kill.
By Ben Kiessel
Aug 13, 2013

Bill, Matt and I climbed this the other day all free. Pitch one went at 5.11b. Pitch 2 is a really cool OW that has lots of features to avoid stacking, it went at 5.10b. The last pitch is a little soft but went free at 5.10a. Really fun free climbing! I would highly recommend!
By Trevor Bowman
From: Sheridan, WY
Mar 21, 2017

A good route on a nice tower that should continue to clean up with a bit more traffic. We thought it felt a bit harder than Ben's ratings on both P1 and P2. I finished P2 with a new #5 Camalot still on my harness, although I could have left it down low on the pitch. I would have liked 3 #6 Camalots however, as the bulk of the pitch is this size. You can rap 3X with a single 70m rope. The route faces west and was shady until 2pm or so for us in mid-March, except for the short last pitch, which faces south.

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