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Routes in M) Fantasy Area
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Aesthetica S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Black and Tan T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Blackhappy S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Doce Doe T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Erotica S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Fantasy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Fantasy Face S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Jet Cap S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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May the 4th Be With You T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Mowed Out Mama T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Mr. Fantasy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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New Fangled Dangle T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Orgasmatron, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Rebel Spade S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Riddle S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Sparks S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Stick, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Tide, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Two-Step Arete T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Unknown T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Virgin Thing S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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| Type: | Trad, 90 ft (27 m) |
| FA: | Andrew Barry, Mike Artz 1985 |
| Page Views: | 956 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Kevin Umbel on Apr 24, 2017 · Updates |
| Admins: | Pat Goodman, Chris Whisenhunt, Amanda Smith, Pnelson |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: NO DRONES ON NATIONAL PARKLANDS
Details
All of the crags within the New River Gorge proper are on national parklands, and drone use is prohibited here. There has been some discussion about places to launch drones that are not on park property, and then flying them over the gorge. This is super poor form; don't do it. Park regulations prohibit all drone use over the boundaries without a permit.
Description
A stone's throw climber's right of Fantasy. This route starts behind a detached block which you'll scamper up and behind to begin. For full credit one must start in the bowels of the abyss, but it is most customary to start on a ledge, mid-height behind the detached block. Make bouldery moves out the initial steep section to gain a nice stance at the base of the left-slanting splitter crack.
It's possible to backclean your first piece of protection through the steep section to minimize rope drag. From here, figure out how to enter the crack and climb it to its end, gaining another rest stance. Finish at the top of the cliff.
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