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Fantasy Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Aesthetica S 
Black and Tan T 
Blackhappy S 
Doce Doe T 
Erotica S 
Fantasy T 
Fantasy Face S 
Jet Cap S 
May the 4th be with you.  T 
Mowed out mama T 
Mr. Fantasy S 
New Fangled Dangle T 
Orgasmatron, The T 
Riddle S 
Stick, The S 
Tide, The T 
Two-Step Arete T 
Virgin Thing S 

The Orgasmatron 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Barry, Artz. 1985
Page Views: 57
Submitted By: Kevin Umbel on Apr 24, 2017

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Writing in chalk MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A stone's throw climber's right of Fantasy. This route starts behind a detached block which you'll scamper up and behind to begin. For full credit one must start in the bowels of the abyss, but it is most customary to start on a ledge, mid-height behind the detached block. Make bouldery moves out the initial steep section to gain a nice stance at the base of the left-slanting splitter crack.

It's possible to backclean your first piece of protection through the steep section to minimize rope drag. From here, figure out how to enter the crack and climb it to its end, gaining another rest stance. Years ago there was a tat anchor here, but as of a few years ago, I believe NRAC member Milky Williams installed an anchor at the top of the cliff, making for fifty feet more of good climbing and an exciting finish!

Protection 

Single rack of cams to 2" with doubles of .5 and .75, stoppers and a nice selection of 2' runners.


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