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The Organ

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The Organ Rock Climbing 

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Submitted By: M. Morley on Jul 6, 2002

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Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>


Organasm (III 5.8 C2) is the primary line on The Organ, although other routes exist.

Getting There 

Approach from pullout between Weeping Rock and Big Bend Shuttle stops on the west side of the road. Cross the river (sandals helpful).

Organasm is the obvious crack splitting the large roof. A switchbacking climbers' access trail will take you right to the base of the route.

Approach time: With low water, 20 minutes. High water, anyone's guess.

Climbing Season

For the Zion National Park area.

Weather station 2.7 miles from here

3 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in The Organ

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for The Organ:
Organasm   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C1     Aid, 4 pitches, 400'   
Organ Grinder   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 250'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in The Organ

Featured Route For The Organ
Rock Climbing Photo: Organ Grinder, September 2010

Organ Grinder 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a  Utah : Zion National Park : The Organ
p1. Climb the crack in the cave to a ledge. Place a cam and head out left into the great sparse gear chimney to anchors nearing the top of the pillar/block (keep your back to the pillar seems best). p2. Climb down and right to the flaring deep awkward good hands and feet through the offwidth crux. There used to be a tree at top for an anchor that is likely dead now. Some bolts are needed for the last anchor if none have been placed (else it'll be pretty awkward anchoring). If there are none then...[more]   Browse More Classics in Utah

Photos of The Organ Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The Organ from Angels Landing.
The Organ from Angels Landing.
Rock Climbing Photo: The Organ from the top of Angels Landing.
The Organ from the top of Angels Landing.
Rock Climbing Photo: No more "organ" graffiti (courtesy of th...
No more "organ" graffiti (courtesy of th...
Rock Climbing Photo: The Organ
Rock Climbing Photo: Summit of the Organ, Angels Landing in the backgro...
Summit of the Organ, Angels Landing in the backgro...
Rock Climbing Photo: One of the lamest things I have ever seen while cl...
One of the lamest things I have ever seen while cl...

Comments on The Organ Add Comment
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By Andrew Klein
Aug 4, 2002
It would be nice if you can use 3 Black Diamiond .75 and 3 2 inch cams or equivalent as these sizes come in very handy for the first pitch. A few raps off the summit would be advised rather then the bushwacking dirty downclimb.
Sep 30, 2005
it has been a year (+ or -) since I was on this route, but I remember it to be one of my two most favorite routes in Zion. The second pitch is where it is at. Do the whole thing free for complete emancipation. Take normal to light rack as it is a short pitch, don't leave the belay w/o a . 75 BD to protect the crux and to keep the rope out of the crack which would push all of your cams protecting the horizontal part out of reach for the follower. A text book .75 placement can be found just right of the angle change coming out of the roof (separate crack system). Good luck, don't be intimadated by its looks, protects super well and climbs even better.
By Karsten Duncan
From: Sacramento, CA
Feb 11, 2006
The first two pitches can be linked with prudent use of long runners and goes free at around 5.11+. The roof is pretty much perfect jams until you pull the lip.

By jackkelly00
From: new hampshire
Jan 27, 2011
Does anyone know what it goes free at?
By Gaar
From: Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
Jan 27, 2011
P1 5.8++
P2 5.11
P3 5.12- Crux crack switch
P4 5.7
By Mike Anderson
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jan 27, 2011
I think guidebooks call the crux pitch mid-5.12, but it's been so long since I did it, that I have no idea what it should be rated. I remember it being pretty face-climby and super cool.
By Tyson Taylor
May 17, 2013
Does anybody have any information on the short 35', single bolt anchor, hands to tips crack that lies 40' to the right(west) of Organasm? It's a sweet little climb if you're waiting out a slow party on Organasm.
By Alex Haeger
From: Boulder, CO
Dec 3, 2015
This wall can also be accessed from the Big Bend pull out. Take the bus there and head down the trail towards the river that all of the tourists take. We crossed the river in late November by taking our shoes off and wading through. It was cold but not terribly bad. Unfortunately this rock isn't really climbable in cold weather and my feet turned into bricks of ice halfway up P1.

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