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The Orc Wall
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The Orc 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,049
Submitted By: Tony B on Dec 28, 2003

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Approaching the crux.


This decent climb is on the south end of the east face of the west wall of Steve Canyon.Enter the Canyon from the south and look left to a "niche" with a nice flat belay trapped up against the rock on the left, perhaps 12M north (past) the hanging flake of 'Caldelabra.' Rising from this belay is a slightly flaring crack with surprisingly good locks and jams. As the crack reaches a bulge, start using a second crack to the left and eventually transistion to that one entirely. This route can sew up reasonably and does not reqire double ropes. Judicious use of slings should suffice. Belay from cracks above, then walk to the top of Candelabra to rap off.

This is one of the easier 10's at J-tree.


A set of nuts, a set of tricams (optional) and a set of cams from 1"-3" Big gear can be used for the belay up top.

Photos of The Orc Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: crazy blood splatter on the start of the Orc, gnar...
BETA PHOTO: crazy blood splatter on the start of the Orc, gnar...

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By Sean
From: Oak Park, CA
Dec 25, 2004

Continue up the initial crack and stay on the right to go over bulge, instead of transferring to the left. Harder at 10a, but why miss the fun part.
By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Apr 9, 2006
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I went right at the first bulge and found the climbing to be around 10a or so. The initial crack bit was a little trickier than it appeared from the ground, but still fun. Bring a cordalette for the anchor as the pro is way back. Chains to the climber's left.
By mike c
From: golden
Oct 19, 2014
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

way easier than right on........if right on is a 5.5, then the orc is 5.4+!
By nathanael
From: Riverside, CA
Feb 5, 2017

Two options (left vs right) at the bulge, and two cracks to the top after the bulge. I tried both combinations, and would recommend right at the bulge for a cooler move, and left at the top to avoid the grainy offwidth on the right (unless you like that).

Fun movement, but the rock isn't great (grainy/crumbling).

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