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The Orb 

YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Peter Beal
Page Views: 3,098
Submitted By: Jim Redo on Sep 3, 2003  with updates from TimPark

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Ted on the crux.

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  • Description 

    This was the farthest left route on the cliff. Hike up a dead end gully-chasm to reach the route. It has very powerful climbing up the gently overhanging wall with surprisingly bad grips. The holds do get better after the third bolt and on the dog does not seem that hard (compared to the climbing below), but you do carry the pump to the anchors. A hold broke in the middle of the crux solidifying the grade, but the route has since been redpointed.... Oh and don't worry you won't hit the wall behind you if you fall.

    This has great movement but is a little crumbly, so only two stars. A short route, so boulderers should fare well.


    5-6 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.

    Photos of The Orb Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Dan doing the final moves before the chains.
    Dan doing the final moves before the chains.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Dan starting the crux moves.
    Dan starting the crux moves.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Dan making the crux clip.
    Dan making the crux clip.

    Comments on The Orb Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Dan Levison
    From: Boulder, CO
    Aug 30, 2004

    Great route; thanks Peter!
    By Matt Battaglia
    Aug 19, 2009
    rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c

    Beta: a left knee pad allows you to get a no hands rest before the crux and then use the left knee pad again as you make a left hand move up to the funky 1.5 finger sidepull/pocket. Stellar route. Super-technotronic foot work.
    By Jon W
    From: Longmont Colorado
    Sep 21, 2015

    There are new bolts to the right of the start of The Orb, creating a "direct start" for the route. It links into The Orb at the 3rd bolt. Anyone know what this is? Grade?

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