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Beckey's Wall Area
Routes Sorted
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"Elementary My Dear Watson" T 
3rd Crack Over T 
Axis of Evil Arete T 
Beckey's Wall T 
Cheetah T 
Date with Fate T 
Date With Kate T 
Fingertrip Variation T 
Fruit Loops T 
Hesitate No More T 
Hesitation T 
Needle's Eye Variation T 
Orange Sling, The T 
Pebbles and Bambam S,TR 
Shaken Climber Syndrome S 
Siesta T 
Split Decision T 
Split Fingers T 
Split Pants T 
Sweet Jane Variation T 
Tarzan T 
Tingey's Direct T 
Tingey's Terror T 
Tingey's Torture T 
Unsorted Routes:

The Orange Sling 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Brian Smoot & Tom Lund, 1997
Page Views: 2,442
Submitted By: bsmoot on Jul 3, 2007

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Paul W. finishing Orange Sling.

Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed MORE INFO >>>


The Orange Sling II (5.9) climbs the upper slabs of the Gate Buttress. Begin at the top of Date with Fate or Pebbles & BamBam (same belay).

This is a fun, moderate, clean, long route because you get to combine it with Beckey's Wall and either of the good slab routes that climb the face right of the last pitch of Beckey's. Because of it's length, it has the same feel as Tingey's Torture. You get 7 pitches in all, although you may be able to link some of them.

Pitch 1: climb a slab just right of a short right facing corner to a bolt. Continue up to a gear belay at a fixed pin on a horizontal crack (5.6).

Pitch 2: Ascend the high quality slab above past 3 bolts to a bolted belay (5.9).

Pitch 3: Climb the slab above to a steep bulge. A 5.9 finger crack in a left facing corner passes the bulge. Traverse left to a gear belay below a chockstone (#2,3 camalots).

Pitch 4: Be carefull passing the chockstone and ascend the asthestic nobby arete (1 bolt) and a tied-off nob to the top (5.7).


Belay off of a giant chickenhead. Bring cams to 3".

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Comments on The Orange Sling Add Comment
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By Greg Gavin
From: SLC, UT
Apr 29, 2011

can we get some sort of basic topo for this please?
By grk10vq
Apr 30, 2011

i've got a rough draft from the FA:

you'll want to save a #2 cam for the crab section.
By Greg Gavin
From: SLC, UT
May 2, 2011

By Stan Pitcher
From: SLC, UT
Apr 23, 2012

hmmm, if this is the route we got on and it appears to be by the bolt count, the 5.9 crux is the hardest 5.9 move I've seen anywhere! Also there is now another set of anchor bolts right below the 5.9 crack (and another mystery slab route below it) which may be a better spot to belay from. The 5.9 crack is excellent and easy to continue to the top of the 5.7 section (did not see or need the bolt). From there we simuled up and right to top of Tingeys and did the East side raps to get down.
By vicente planelles
Apr 3, 2016

After Pebbles and Bam-Bam, Colin and I linked Orange sling in two pitches with a single 60m rope. However, the drag on the second and final pitch was unbearable so it should be broken in two as indicated by the circle belay (no bolts) on the map. Good placement for cams at that location. The map is fine though, i don't see why people are complaining. Incredible adventure !! April 3, 2016.

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