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The Oral office 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 30'
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Bill Robins. Paul Certa (?)
Page Views: 184
Submitted By: Ethan Henderson on Jan 18, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Description 

Start climbing a thin hand/hand crack with tons of face holds. Face climb and jam up this thing. Crux is the last few moves which can be jammed or face climbed or a combination.

After about 25 feet of this you end on a ledge with a bolted chain anchor.

Location 

Far side of the wall. There is a little alcove and a ledge the routes start on the ledge. "Oral Office" is one right of the middle one. It is left of a wide crack - "Gargling Sperm"

Bolted Anchor shared by all routes in this alcove.

Protection 

Gear to 3"


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By Hmann2
Mar 12, 2013

5.8 in the guide book. Crack is kind of flared, and alot of the rock is hollow or crumbling. Def gets the heart pounding when you can feel the rock your hand is jamming in moving. NOT a good beginner lead.
By Ethan Henderson
From: Silverdale, WA
Jul 9, 2013

its 5.6 in robins's topos. (He has the FA)
By J M
Apr 3, 2017

I climbed this expecting a relaxing 5.6 and the difficulty of the upper half came as a surprise. Looked it up in the Frenchman Coulee guide book afterwards and I think the 5.8 rating is more accurate.

I agreed with Hmann2. Would not recommend this route for new trad leaders who may be tempted to try it due to the current Mountain Project rating.

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