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Quercus Cliff
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L to R R to L Alpha
A Prince Among Thieves S 
Channeling Your Wheaties T 
Oracle, The T 
Overdose T 
Querculator , The S 

The Oracle 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 85'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a PG13 [details]
FA: C Moorhead
Page Views: 535
Submitted By: Alex Shainman on Jul 31, 2013

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Description 

This is a fantastic and devious all-gear line of discontinuous arching seams and edges. The route brilliantly pieces together with just enough pro to keep you off the deck (as soon as you get your first pieces, that is); luckily you can stand on your feet a lot to figure it out. The gear is not totally obvious at times and needs exact placement. It's all there for a compitent leader but even still, an onsight lead could potentially become "R or X" rated if you don't pro it just right. Great movement on interesting, less than vertical rock with a couple defined cruxes. There is a big run out section up high but on easier terrain. If in doubt, toprope first...

Location 

Just right of A Prince Among Thieves

Protection 

A set of cams from .4" to 2" including extra .6" to .1" (I found green to red Aliens to be a nice fit), small to medium nuts/offsets, some runners, attentive belayer


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