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116 orc tower rd. T 
opportunity of a lifetime, The T 

The opportunity of a lifetime 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: J. Wyland, N. Rosser
Page Views: 957
Submitted By: Jon Nelson on May 8, 2013

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Nic on P1 of Opportunity of a lifetime. (Photo by ...

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Description 

Goes more behind Orc Tower than on it.
Start from the ledge of "cream of the country", also the start of the second pitch of "116 orc tower road". Crawl through the hole accessing the seldom visited Orc Tower chamber room. Make your way to the back pedestal and get ready for some action.

P1: 10b Wild stemming protected by a thin crack on the main wall leads to a massive roof. Traverse left (west) and then up through a flaring fist crack to the notch between Orc Tower and the wall. A two bolt belay is on the Orc Tower side.

P2. 9 Traverse west out of the gap and onto the wall, joining the upper hand cracks of what is probably Orc Wall (rusty pins were spotted at the alcove down and to the left of the obvious triple cracks at the top of the wall). Follow the crack.

A fine route with a high dose of adventure. Cool even on the hottest of days.

Location 

See description above and the overview image.

Protection 

A wide range of sizes.


Photos of The opportunity of a lifetime Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The finishing cracks of Opportunity of a life. (Ph...
The finishing cracks of Opportunity of a life. (Ph...
Rock Climbing Photo: Nic following P2 of Opportunity of a life. (Photo ...
Nic following P2 of Opportunity of a life. (Photo ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Leaving the belay on the second pitch of Opportuni...
Leaving the belay on the second pitch of Opportuni...
Rock Climbing Photo: Topping out on P1 of Opportunity of a lifetime. (P...
Topping out on P1 of Opportunity of a lifetime. (P...
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up P1 of Opportunity of a lifetime. (Photo...
Looking up P1 of Opportunity of a lifetime. (Photo...
Rock Climbing Photo: The hole to the other side of Orc Tower, for the s...
The hole to the other side of Orc Tower, for the s...

Comments on The opportunity of a lifetime Add Comment
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By Mike Schmitt
Aug 28, 2013

This is a fun, adventurous, and quite unique route. After a belly crawl to reach the "Chamber Room", wild stemming leads to some even wilder overhanging moves to surmount a roof. Bring gear from #0 C3 to #4 C4. We didn't climb the short second pitch but it looks worthwhile as well.

Due to all the loose rock at the base of Orc Tower, avoid climbing this one on weekends to minimize the risk of hitting climbers in the Country with falling rocks.
By Kameron Decker Harris
Aug 28, 2013

The stemming is rad and keeps the climbing relatively moderate. Moving through the roof felt hard!

It looks like there is a hand crack line to the right of this (in the chamber room but on the main wall).

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