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Mary's Bust - main buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Broadmoor, The S 
Brown Palace, The S 
Convolution S 
Deceiver S 
Disneyland T,S 
Dynamite S 
Fool Me Twice T,S 
Frisky Lady S 
Just in Time S 
Lie Detector S 
Mary's Jugs S 
Mary's Tricks S 
Maternal Damnation S 
Moon Shadow S 
New Direction T 
Open Road, The S 
Out Of Time S 
Proud Mary S 
Stuck In Time S 
There's Something About Mary T,S 
Violet Blue S 
Wingardium Leviosa T,S 
Unsorted Routes:

The Open Road 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 115'
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: K. Duncan, D. Humphrey, 2017. P1 TR'd by Bernard Gillett, 2009
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 126
Submitted By: Ken Duncan on May 28, 2017

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This was put up the first weekend after the canyon reopened following a long winter closure. The first pitch makes for a nice warm-up, or combine both pitches for an 18 bolt mega pitch. The rock is a little flaky at this time but should clean up with use.

P1. 5.9+: start on the right side of the "crystal cave", and follow bolts up and left then straight up to a ledge with chain anchors.

P2. 5.11: easy climbing for a couple bolts is followed by thin, techy climbing before moving back left to join Maternal Damnation for the last four bolts. The line of least resistance stays right of the bolt line through the crux.

From the top of P2, a 70m will just get you to the ledge at the base. Be sure to knot the ends.


Start at the right side of the "crystal cave" (the old mine).


8 bolts for P1, 9 bolts for P2, or 18 bolts for a mega pitch. Bring some long slings if doing it as a single pitch.

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