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Left Main Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Anxiety S 
Beam Me Up, Scotty S 
Frodo Lives S 
Nichols is a Weenie S 
Open Book Variation S 
Open Book, The T 
Quest, The S 
Scooby-Doo S 
Shattered Image S 
Slippery as an Eells S 
Tendinitus S 
Unsorted Routes:

The Open Book 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 35'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b R [details]
FA: Sean Cobourn
Page Views: 26
Submitted By: MattThomas on Jun 5, 2011

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Description 

Start in the obvious right facing inside corner that is located in the center of The Left Main Wall. Climb to the open book, then stem out the open book, continue to anchors.

"Todd McCormick and I were working State of the Artless, so named due to our creative pin scarring a la Jim Bridwell, Todd tried to lead it first, fell from the top of the book, ripped pro and landed in the pond. He suffered compression fractures in his back and as far as I know pretty much quit climbing soon thereafter. I went up later and lead it. The funny part is that the pin scars were not needed after all. A lesson best learned while young." --Sean Cobourn's comments on his first ascent of the Book in June of 1987.

Rich Rice is to be credited for inspiring many others to lead The Open Book in recent years. His 1994 free ascent of the Book was an inspiration to all of the Logtown locals. Rich used small stoppers and sliders to protect the book then a larger cam in the horizontal above, this was the first time that adequate protection had ever been used on the route. To date only a few other climbers have lead the Book on gear.

Protection 

Anchors at top


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