REI Community
Table Mountain
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
"False" Holy Smoke  T 
Bugs Eat Frogs T 
Cader Crack T 
City of Lost Children  T 
Dick to the Rescue  T 
Genevieve T 
Holy Grail  T 
Hornet  T 
King Arthur's Arete T 
Knights in White Satin  T 
Merlin T 
Merlin’s Wand  T 
Noble Gesture T 
Old Smokey's Return, The T 
Percival's Quest T 
Picnic Table  T 
REAL Holy Smoke & Table Scraps  T 
Siege (“Seat”) Perilous T 
Sir Bors Dream  T 
Sir Hector's Highway T 
Table Talk  T 

The Old Smokey's Return 

YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 250'
Original:  YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c [details]
FA: ACB/FA? R. Hall, Doug Burnell, Doug Teschner, Oct 25, 2013
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 421
Submitted By: Robert Hall on Oct 28, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
The original "Old Smokeys" - Doug Burnel...

Description 

The Old Smokey’s Return 5.4 G / PG-13 ?F?A? / As Climbed By / R. Hall, Doug Burnell and Doug Teschner, Oct 25, 2013

START - About 10 ft left of the False Holy Smoke belay tree, directly below the right side of a bulge-corner about 20-25 ft above the ground. SEE PHOTO. GEAR: A Medium-large (black strap) Tricam eliminates the "X-Factor", as does a #3 (blue) Camalot. Also needed is a Gold (#2) Camalot, Green (#1) and an optional Red (# 1.5) Camalot.

P1 – Climb to the right side of the bulge (hole for a “black Tricam”) then climb up 15-20 ft to a hole (Gold #2 Camalot), continue straight up, passing a 3/8 bolt after 20ft, then another 25ft ft to a larger hole (#3 Camalot). This hole is 6 feet below a right-facing "half-moon" flake (which is useless for pro.) Then up on brushed, white-ish rock passing a 2nd bolt and continue to an obvious left-facing flake. (#1, # 1.5 Cams) Up this and then move 25 ft left to the Holy Grail belay [Alt] at the maple tree clump. 165+ft, 5.4
[Alt- Move right to the False Holy Smoke belay. ]

Rap with two ropes, or traverse to the Merlin anchor to rap with one 70 (62) meter rope, or...

P2 - The easiest, most well protected exit from the slab. From the "maple tree clump belay" move easily right and up to the overlap. Over this a foot or two left of a bush (at a bolt, same place as False Holy Smoke). Instead of straight up as for False Holy Smoke, move diagonally up and right to a curving flake (small gear possible). Step over at brushed footholds about half-way up the flake and climb the slab to a fixed 2-inch aluminum "bong" piton. Walk 15(+/-) ft right along the horizontal ledge, then easily straight up to the overlap. Surmount this about 5 ft left of its right end at a sort of "step" with a bolt above. ("crux" 5.4-5.5) Continue 10 ft to the Upper Merlin Rap station. 90-100 ft 5.4-5.5
To get back to the "Bugs" rap station and the hiking trail, take the climber's path that starts a few feet above the rap station.

Location 

See Photo. The "bulge-corner" is about 15 ft below the climber. START - About 10 ft left of the False Holy Smoke belay tree, directly below the right side of an indistinct bulge-corner about 20-25 ft above the ground.

Protection 

GEAR: Medium (black strap) Tricam, Gold Camalot (#2), Blue (#3) Camalot, Green (#1) and an optional Red (# 1.5) Camalot.


Photos of The Old Smokey's Return Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Doug Burnell near the top of "The Old Smokey'...
Doug Burnell near the top of "The Old Smokey'...
Rock Climbing Photo: R.Hall on "Old Smokey's Return" The Gold...
BETA PHOTO: R.Hall on "Old Smokey's Return" The Gold...

Comments on The Old Smokey's Return Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About