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The Old Route 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b R

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b R [details]
Page Views: 996
Submitted By: TacoDelRio on Jul 10, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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BETA PHOTO: Topo of the 'old route' on Mormon Rock's largest s...


This route is fairly easy but I do not suggest leading it, as it is severely runout.

The rock here is quite obviously sandy, so many smears result in ball-bearing like friction. Lots of small rocks embedded in the sandstone provide good holds, though some tend to pop out.

If you have more info on this route, send me a PM.


This route is located on the left/east side of the northeast face of Mormon Slab, the largest formation in Mormon Rocks. Simply take the dirt road next to the train tracks and drive just north of the slab. The route is the leftmost white waterstreak on the face.

An easy hike takes you to the base of the route. Continuing further west along the base of the slab takes you to the easy 3rd class approach gully. Hike up this to access the anchors for a toprope.


One bolt, followed by two old but bomber pitons in one 150 ft pitch. Two solid newer bolts with rings up top. Toprope the route!

Photos of The Old Route Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Old piton slammered in.
BETA PHOTO: Old piton slammered in.

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By Ken Noyce
From: Layton, UT
Feb 9, 2012
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a X

This route is super easy but I certainly wouldn't ever lead it. The pitons look okay, but the route is probably 180' long, and there is a bolt at 25 feet, a pin at 50 feet, then the third pin is at probably 120 feet, and the belay area wouldn't work well for a stone mountain belay so you would certainly deck if you fell off prior to clipping the third pin. But you might say that the climbing is so easy that you wouldn't fall off right, my issue is that the rock quality is so poor that I wouldn't be surprised if any of the big cobbles that you use for hands and feet ripped off the wall while you were useing them. I certainly knocked some of the smaller ones off pretty easily. One wierd thing about this route is that all the holds up to the first bolt are manufactured, who knows who did it or why they are, but they obviously are.
By James Schaldach
Sep 3, 2013

There once was 3 pins on this route. The two that are left are loose and shouldn't be trusted. The bolts that were at the belay station are long gone, I hope to have them replaced this summer as well as re setting the pins.

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