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The Old Pro Skill 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b

Type:  Sport
Original:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Phil Requist
Season: ALWAYS.
Page Views: 1,095
Submitted By: andy patterson on Nov 2, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Andy about to send (with style).


Long, powerful lock-offs at bottom. Juggy midsection. Cruxy last moves with a scary clip to boot.


Just left of Chips Ahoy.


Fixed draws.

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Rock Climbing Photo: Phil. Crushing.
Phil. Crushing.

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By andy patterson
From: Carpinteria, CA
Mar 24, 2013

Okay, so I kind of take back what I said: the last clip isn't actually SCARY. It's slightly awkward, but even if you blow it with gobs of slack out, your fall will be pleasant, albeit big.

This route evinces the concept of "redpoint-heartbreak".

So fun.
By Bob Banks
May 22, 2013

To further already shattered egos out there, Pro Skill was rated 12c for many years. I always called it 12c/13b.
By andy patterson
From: Carpinteria, CA
Oct 6, 2013

My current approach to this route includes skipping the last clip altogether. That way I can focus on just the climbing. A few other guys do this, too. I think it was the only way I could redpoint, since you HAVE to be fresh on the undercling move, and fuddling with the clip wastes precious juice.
By Brian S
Oct 21, 2014

There is a semi-popular link-up - No Skill. Climb most of Old Pro Skill cut over to the Chips outro jugs. Skips the cruxes of both routes. 12b/c?
By steve edwards
From: SLC, UT
Nov 4, 2014

Sounds like somebody's using the old pro skill on him and my man's fallin' for it.

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