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Trojan Wall (Right of Bat Cave)
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Golden Fleece S 
Iliad, The S 
Little Iliad S 
Midas Touch S 
Odyssey, The S 
Stones of Sisyphus S 
Trojan Horse S 

The Odyssey 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 180'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Rich Strang
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 285
Submitted By: Rich Strang on Mar 7, 2016

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Up high entering the cool dihedral The Odyssey (5...

Description 

This route is the 2nd pitch above The Iliad. The rock, movement and position above the entire valley make this one of the must do .12s in the Bat Cave area. Probably as good as New Beginning but not quite so hard.
1st PITCH (70') -
Climb The Iliad or Little Iliad to the belay chains.
2nd PITCH (110') -
From the upper belay on The Iliad(at 110')move up to clip a bolt then step a bit right and back left to the next bolt. Move right into the corner after the 2nd bolt as the route begins to steepen. Climb the fun 5.11 corner on good holds that begin to get smaller. At the 5th bolt make a difficult move left out of the corner to a small bulge. Surmount this difficult bulge on extremely small crimps. Make techy moves back right to a pod in the corner. Climb over the final bulge and move left to the chains at a belay stance/ledge.
Note: The large block at the top that you climb onto is solid but the right side has a crack in it. At present the fractured right side is solid but try not to use it as is could come off in time. Better to climb left on jugs under the block and then pull up onto the solid center section of the block.

Location 

Climbs the steep corner up and right of the finish to The Iliad/Trojan Horse pitch. Start at the base of The Trojan Wall and climb either The Iliad(5.10+) or Trojan Horse(5.11+) to access the upper wall

Protection 

9 bolts above the upper Iliad belay anchors lead to a 2 bolt belay station with chains and lowering binders.


Photos of The Odyssey Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Tiny crimps at the crux of The Odyssey (5.12) Ian ...
Tiny crimps at the crux of The Odyssey (5.12) Ian ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Route topo for The Iliad & The Odyssey
Route topo for The Iliad & The Odyssey

Comments on The Odyssey Add Comment
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By Rich Strang
From: Santa Fe, NM
Mar 7, 2016

I climbed this in one MEGA 180' pitch!! Maybe not the best way since rope drag can be rough clipping the upper (crux) bolts. However its nice that the belayer doesn't have to climb if they are not following you. The best option is probably do the first 65' (Little Iliad) as the first pitch which finishes on a narrow ledge. Next climb the upper part of Iliad directly into The Odyssey. Another option is to belay at the top of The Iliad in a hanging belay. This works OK if the second is leading through since the changeover in the hanging stance is a hassel. With the belayer on the ground you can lower from the upper Odyseey anchors to the 110' level chains with a 60M rope and then rap to the ground. With a 70M rope you can lower to the low anchors and then rap if desired.
A very Cool route!

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