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Octopus Cave, The T 

The Octopus Cave 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Greg Barnes, Bruce Bindner, 4/08
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 669
Submitted By: Greg Barnes on Apr 10, 2008

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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>


A wild pitch up into the deep, huge chimney left of Aquarium leads to a tunnel through to the outside. The second pitch starts up the big right-leaning corner, then transfers left to the thin crack which ends in the middle of a black face.


Left of Aquarium there's a great black hang out ledge. Scramble to the left (a 3rd class down-step) to the base of the chimney. Take the leftmost crack up 30', transfer to the middle crack (hands), take that up 20', then transfer right past a thin crack (overhung stemming) to pass the chockstone. Take the brown offwidth on the left (crux) until you can chimney through the hole to the outside. Second pitch (5.8/9) starts up the right crack for 50', then transfers left to the nice thin crack which ends in the steep black face. Rap 190' from nuts back to the black hang out ledge (you rap right past the crux of Aquarium).


pro to 4", double 1-4". You could use a huge cam but it'd only gain you a couple feet since the ow widens rapidly to 14", then pinches to 4". The ow is slightly flared making big bros dicey. Good luck not kicking the last piece out!

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