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Winter Dance Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Curtains 
Nutcracker, The 
Over Easy 
Winter Dance 
Unsorted Routes:

The Nutcracker 

WI5+ M8

   
Type:  Mixed, Ice, 5 pitches, 600', Grade IV
Original: WI5+ M8 [details]
FA: Conrad Anker, Chris Erikson 2014
Season: Winter
Page Views: 391
Submitted By: Nate K on Jan 18, 2016

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winter dance/ nutcracker from the ridge

Potential road closures in winter. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

P1: M5- locate the bolt line to climbers right of winter dance. follow it to a 2 bolt anchor 70' (Anchor is a bit off to the left, this pitch is super choosy and probably the scariest thing on the route)
P2: M7- go right from P1 anchors. Climb more bolts up the steeping wall 80' to two bolt anchor
P3- M8- follow bolts through the roof. pumpy and fun 80' to two bolt anchor (crux is very cryptic good luck if you're going for the onsight)
P4- M5- follow more bolts to climbers left of the anchor. stem out onto the ice and enoy fun climbing to the top. 70' to two bolt anchor in the cave
P5- WI5 or sometimes harder. Climb the ice out of the cave and finish at a tree anchor on top 120'

The rock is typical hyalite crap but the position, difficulty, and final ice pitch of winter dance make this an amazing route.

Location 

Go find Winter Dance. Follow the ridge up to a ledge that traverses in. if you hit a fixed line youve gone too far. Traverse in and look for ice blobs at the start of winter dance. There is a bolt line about 20-30 feet to climbers right. Route can be rapped with a 70 or you can top out and follow fixed lines down the ridge

Protection 

The lower 3 pitches are all closely bolted. pitch 4 is a few bolts and then some ice screws. Pitch 5 is all ice. Bring 12-14 draws, and 8 or so screws.


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