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The Notch Arête 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 65'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 68
Submitted By: John Steiger on Jul 9, 2017

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the hole in the standard ridge to gain access to t...

Description 

Another “unknown,” but we’ve got enough of those in BCC that I’ve given this a name just to distinguish it. If someone knows the real name and FA, give it up and the glory will go to the deserving and justice will be served. This is the obvious arête with two bolts just left of the “window” or gap in the Standard Ridge that one passes through on the way to Rush Wall. The crux is well protected by two bolts, but the easier climbing before and after requires solid rock sense and careful nutcraft to protect decently. Worth doing if visiting the other trad routes on Lonely Challenge or on your way to Rush Wall.

Location 

About 10 minutes up the scree and boulder field (a fairly good trail is developing) between the west face of Challenge Buttress on the left and Strone Crag/Standard Ridge on the right. Stay on the far right side of the scree and boulder field and once up a few switchbacks you’ll see the “window” or gap at the top of a major break on the right. Walk 100 feet up this to the base.

Protection 

Brass or steel nuts (offsets useful), set of microcams and cams to 1 ½ inches (don’t pass up any placements). Rappel from Metolius rap hangers on top.


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