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The Nose
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Nose, The S 

The Nose 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 3 pitches, 250'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Ziad Orfali
Page Views: 48
Submitted By: Jonathan Sheldon on Mar 28, 2017

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BETA PHOTO: Rappelling off the top of the nose.

Description 

Best accessed by rappelling from the top. You can use a 70m rope to rappel off the third pitch, and it is possible to get to the bottom with one more rappel. Recommend leaving water at this ledge.

First pitch is easy corner with tree growing in it (tropical mixed climbing). Finish at hanging belay next to tree.

Most of the second pitch is a perfect finger crack. Crux of route is the steep part of this crack around the 2nd bolt.

Third pitch is best belayed from the ledge to avoid rope drag. Very sheer face with good views of the valley. Good, consistent 5.10 climbing on sharp Krobo chicken heads to the top.

Location 

Head to Gotham City, head up through the cave to the top of the main wall. Walk a short distance (less than 10 minutes) following the top of the main wall to a short, squat, roundish boulder. There is a small bush, and some anchors on the top of this boulder. This is the top of the nose. There is no trail to get here, so best find a local climber to take you there.

Protection 

You should have 18 quick draws.


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