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The Mezzanines
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The Nose 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, 1150'
Original:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 386
Submitted By: Tristan Higbee on Jul 7, 2016

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BETA PHOTO: Rough topo of the route

Description 

This route follows the obvious proud, narrow prow on the left side of the main area of The Mezzanines. The route is shorter, more consistent, and generally on better rock than Timex.

The pitches as done below were climbed with a 70-meter rope, but the route can be done with a rope of any length. The Ogden guidebook gives the route a 5.6 rating. While all of the 5.7 cruxes could be bypassed to keep the grade at 5.6, the 5.7 parts are the best parts of the climb. The beta below is for one possible line up the formation, but plenty of others and variations exist.

Pitch 1 – 5.easy, 20 m
Climb up the short, broken wall that has an obvious tree at the top. Easily soloable. This will put you on a big ledge at the base of the "real" climbing.

Pitch 2 – 5.5, 65+ m
Climb up the fun arete on pretty good rock and belay on ledges about 50 feet below a roof with a hand/fist crack running through it.

Pitch 3 – 5.7+, 70 m
Head up and left from the belay and go over a fun roof on good holds. After topping out above the roof, head up the short cliff band to your right.

Unrope and scramble up a couple-hundred feet to the base of the next steep chunk of rock, which is a ~70-foot high step of compact, light-colored stone that has a roof running along it near the top.

Pitch 4 – 5.7+, 65 m
Climb up the compact, light-colored stone (with so-so pro in the rock) to the roof. Climb through the roof via the finger crack just right of the center of the roof. Continue for the rest of the pitch on easier terrain. Belay at a large boulders on a level portion of the ridge below the final steep section.

Move the belay 50 feet closer to the base of the ridge.

Pitch 5 – 5.5, 60 m
Take the line that looks best to you up through this broken final stretch of the ridge. We went just right of the ridge crest. Belay where convenient.

Scramble up the remaining 10–15 meters to the top.

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See the descent beta on the main page for The Mezzanines. The gully (northern) descent is highly recommended over the canyon (southern) descent.

Location 

Park at the north end of Polk Ave. across from a house (coordinates: 41.260743, -111.942788). This isn't a signed trailhead but is a dead-end street just east of Trinity Presbyterian Church. The Nose is visible directly high above this parking area as the obvious narrow buttress.

From the parking area, walk past the gate and then essentially walk directly uphill for 45 minutes or an hour and you'll get to the base of The Nose. You'll cross the gravel canal road and then Bonneville Shoreline Trail as you make your wait toward a large, light-colored rock outcrop with a cave at its base (see the approach beta photos). There is a faint trail that goes straight up from the parking area to this light gray outcrop, but it's faint and easy to miss. If you don't find it, just go straight up the hillside.

From the top of this outcrop, continue heading straight uphill along the right side of a small canyon/drainage. There's not really a trail here, so just go up. Eventually, you'll have to contour left around the purplish-grayish rock by some easy 3rd class scrambling, and then head back right to the base of the route, which is a short cliff band of broken up, lighter-colored quartzite. You'll see a prominent juniper tree at the top of the cliff band.

Protection 

Micro cams, 1.5 set of cams to #3, set of nuts, lots of slings


Photos of The Nose Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 4
Pitch 4
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 5
Pitch 5
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 3. Willy about to tackle the roof.
Pitch 3. Willy about to tackle the roof.
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 2
Pitch 2
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 1 and showing the start of the route. Note t...
BETA PHOTO: Pitch 1 and showing the start of the route. Note t...
Rock Climbing Photo: Approach map. Line of approach is yellow.
BETA PHOTO: Approach map. Line of approach is yellow.
Rock Climbing Photo: Approach beta
BETA PHOTO: Approach beta

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