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Summit Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Jack of Diamonds T,TR 
Joker, The T,TR 
King of Diamonds T,TR 
Nose Direct TR 
Nose, The T 
Open Book, The T,TR 
Queen of Diamonds TR 
Roger's Romp T 
Sidewalk T 
Unknown TR 

The Nose 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: S. Masonholder, D. Kloke
Page Views: 340
Submitted By: Matt Mardigan on Jan 10, 2016

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Lower Main Wall/East Buttress Trails Re-opened MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Climb the Joker until you are level with the bottom of the nose. Traverse left to side of the nose, step across (crux) and ascend the open book. Easier terrain takes you past multiple sets of bolted anchors at the cliff top. Steep and exposed with decent pro on lead.

Location 

first route immediately right of the Nose feature

Protection 

Gear to 2"


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By Mack Johnson
Aug 28, 2017

This was a reasonable lead with a wire and small cams in the upper groove. The texture of sweet granite. Confusing tho: it felt easy going straight up past a prominent loose block, and a lot harder doing the steep balance traverse and palming up the Nose from the right.

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