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The Nose 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

Type:  Sport, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: JBaker, Cres Snyder, Dave Jones, June 2015
Page Views: 631
Submitted By: jbak on Jun 1, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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BETA PHOTO: Nose route marked


A very pretty route. Based on looks alone I give it 3 stars, even though it's not really my favorite style of climbing. A lot of people may love it.

A harder-than-it-looks slabby arete/stem trough....followed by a cool, easier-than-it-looks overhang....then a delicate, vertical, bear-hugging arete with a hard-to-read crux bulge at the end.

Perhaps a slight sand-bag at 5.11, would be easy to say 11+.


Straight up the south nose of the formation.


13 bolts (I think) plus Mussys.

Long QDs to prevent rope drag. Maybe double draw the bolt on the midway ledge.

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By 1Eric Rhicard
Jun 3, 2015

JBak, did you not get the memo. No new routes until the guidebook has been printed and released!!! It would have been nice to have one day where the book was not already obsolete, but noooooo, you have to put up another route and ruin things!

Hereforth, be it known, no new routes will be put along the Catalina Highway until such time as Squeezing the Lemmon III has been released!

;) End of July to early August so take a road trip John!
By jbak
Jun 3, 2015

Sorry man ! What was I thinking ? I'll erase it. It'll give me a chance to use the little bolt-spinner dealio I got from Geir.

I'll put it back up in September !!
By jbak
Jun 8, 2015

Sent. Guidebook now OOD.
By WSnyder
Aug 10, 2015
rating: 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a

Fun route. I liked the change up in action and style.

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