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Alberta S 
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The Nose 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 55'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 375
Submitted By: George Perkins on Apr 10, 2008

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Description 

This climb takes on the prow above the obvious big black bulge in the middle of the face, right of the obvious overhanging finger crack Bulges. The upper section of this climb is really good.

There are 2 or 3 choices to begin: the bouldery Alberta start (bolt protected 5.10+) is the best one.

After you reach the big ledge, follow the bolt line up the prow. The first bolt is just out of reach; if you bring a #0.75 camalot it is less stressful. The prow is high quality sustained pocket pulling. Stay out of the corner to the right, though it isn't very tempting.

Rated 5.10a in the old guide.

Protection 

5 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. A #0.75 camalot is nice to have to get pro in on the ledge before reaching the first bolt off the ledge, but many people will be ok without it.


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