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The Citadel
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Anticipation T 
Arch Rival T 
best forgotten art T 
Clem's Folly T 
Finger Breakers TR 
Finger Zinger S 
Glad We Came S 
Hercamur Snurd T 
Iron Worker T 
Little Diddle T 
Murray's Crack T 
Nose, The T 
Romper Room T 
Second Thoughts T 
Stem Cell Research T 
Styx n Stones T 
West Ridge T 
Whole Banana T 
Wish You Were Here T 

The Nose 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 140'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
Page Views: 1,466
Submitted By: Aaron Hobson on Jun 17, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (20)
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Katie Goins leading the Nose.

Placement of bolts/fixed anchors is prohibited in Wilderness Study Areas MORE INFO >>>


A stand-out crack on the lower NW prow of the Citadel. This pitch makes an excellent start to the NW ridge route. The crux is the clean, slightly leaning crack, which requires a thin hands/finger sized move to gain a small ledge. Ignore the poot slings on the ledge and continue up the crack system on steep but easier face climbing. The angle then eases up and you can belay anywhere on the spacious ledge which is also the top of Finger Zinger.


The prominent crack is easy to spot, on the NW buttress of the Citadel. It's one of the first climbs visible from the approach. The start is around the corner from Finger Zinger slightly on the western face.


Standard alpine rack will suffice, and having some cams in the finger/small-hand size is good for the crux.

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By ascender30
Mar 14, 2011

If you rap down from the slings over Finger Zinger, a 60m rope will NOT reach the ground...but it WILL reach a tree that you can climb down :)

So if you want to Top-rope FZ, you'll need a 70m rope.
By Forrest Wilcox
From: Las Cruces, NM
Aug 12, 2012

nice hand jamming at the crux, really fun lead

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