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Nose of Turkey Rock, The T 
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Smoked Turkey S 

The Nose of Turkey Rock 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 280'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: H. Carter, R. Gardner
Page Views: 376
Submitted By: Tobin Sanson on Jun 18, 2008

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P1. The route starts at a big boulder, right off the trail. Scramble up the boulder and climb straight up to the first pin (15' off the ground). It is unprotected to this point. there is another pin three feet above the first. Climb up the white colored rock over a bulge. After the bulge, about 30', you will come to a two bolt anchor on a sloping ledge. Traverse right from here about 40' to fixed anchor.

P2. Climb up 200' placing gear as needed. You pass a two bolt anchor at 130'. Continue climbing the rest of the way. You can walk off or you can scramble down to the left to a chain anchor.

Two single rope rappels to the bottom of Smoked Turkey (highly recommended if you can lead 5.10).


It is about 15 minutes above the boulderfield parking lot.


Light rack, pins, fixed and natural anchors.

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By Doug Redosh
From: Golden, CO
Aug 9, 2009

P2 is 5.4 at most, not 5.6 as in the guidebook. Still is fun!
By GilaShot
From: Western Antarctic, New England, Arizona
Jul 13, 2016

Unprotected start leads to some fun ledges. Traversing right 40' at the end of the first pitch brings you to two pins to belay from. I backed them up with a green X4. From there, a 60m rope will get you to the top. An old piton on the second pitch is super loose!

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