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The Nose, of Jello Tower 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 75'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Fred Beckey, Don Wilde, 1950
Season: Spring through Fall
Page Views: 572
Submitted By: Karsten Duncan on Mar 27, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (25)
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Jonathan Roatch entering the overhanging, greasy c...

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This steep classic has been challenging climbers for decades. Solid rock and the unique features of the Jello Tower combine to make a stout climb. The pro is good but you'll struggle to get it as you forearms pump up. A combination of crack and face moves lead to the top of the tower.


The route ascends the middle of the southwest face of Jello Tower.


Regular rack to #2 camalot.
Bolted anchors on top

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By Shaun Johnson
May 2, 2013

A new anchor has been placed on top of The Nose and The South Face of Jello Tower.
This makes it easier to repelle off Jello Tower when other groups are on Midway.
By Thad Arnold
From: Oregon
May 23, 2013

I was really impressed with this route. Super fun and good gear.
By geoff georges
From: Seattle, Wa.
May 19, 2014
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

I think it's worth remembering that Mead Hargis made the first free ascent of this.
By geoff georges
From: Seattle, Wa.
Sep 7, 2016
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

first ascent: Fred and Don Wilde, 1950. It is listed incorrectly in Kramar's book. Ed Cooper confirms this as he was not yet climbing in 50 or 52.
Beckey also says they placed 2 bolts on the first ascent, they are long gone. At the lower crux you can place a good cam, make some very hard moves and then it is really strenuous to quickly jam a small cam or nut in, then it is much easier the rest of the way with one more short crux after the roof.
By Jon Nelson
From: Bellingham, WA
Sep 7, 2016

Thanks Geoff. Now updated.

The more history we have of a route, the better.
By hummerchine
Mar 10, 2017
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

5.10d my ass. SOLID 5.11.

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