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Left Hand of Darkness - West Face
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The Nose in a Day 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 109
Submitted By: Adam Stackhouse on May 22, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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During one of my stronger moments.


This climbs the obvious big crack via a big hole in the middle of the right face.


A few of the big stuff

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By Russ Walling
Jan 7, 2014

I thought the moves off the ground were kinda tough or I was blowing it. After this it is standard Josh fare with a few pulls, a couple of loose flakes, one move of OW and funky but easy top out.

Pro is small to med at the start, sorta wide (4" plus) in the middle and then med at the end. Belay on top or set up a rap so you can do the Salathe Free without the massive walk around to get back to the base.
By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Jan 7, 2014

Standing on a nubbin in my bad shoes in the blazing sun not liking the down climb or the landing convinced me to continue up. Glad/fortunate I didn't crater!
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Jan 7, 2014

I led this two star classic today and found it quite enjoyable. Good feet and gear to start leading to the wide crack with surrounding walls having better holds than the crack itself. Somewhat sneaky placements in that it has a layer of .5-.75" flake inside making for the most hollow of sounds when placing cams. Lots of moving around to get the best purchase. Ultimately went with the motto of Cam big and deep.

Upper section quite delicious with supplemental crack to the left which is most excellent for balance or whatever. Lots of gear choices up top anchor from hands and up - bring a long runner if you want to set up a TR or grains will kill your rope.

My star rating is 2 stars finding it altogether enjoyable although I"ll probably never go there again.
By brian burke
From: santa monica, ca
Jan 2, 2015

can be led safely with medium cams to #3, no big gear needed in my opinion.

a couple of burly offwidth moves at the crux bulge surrounded by easier featured crack climbing. pretty fun.

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