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The Nose  

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Unknown, Joe Cote?
Page Views: 2,377
Submitted By: And Partner on Jan 12, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (26)
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bring a .5 for the last horizontal


The obvious rounded arete that forms the center divider for the cliff.
Mostly if not all fixed gear (bolts and pins)


Center of the cliff.
Starts off of the upper launch pad.


Bolts and Pins
Maybe a few pieces?

Photos of The Nose Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Kellie Barr-Foster
Kellie Barr-Foster
Rock Climbing Photo: My first ever outdoor climb! 04-14-2014
My first ever outdoor climb! 04-14-2014
Rock Climbing Photo: My first ever outdoor climb! 04-14-2014
My first ever outdoor climb! 04-14-2014
Rock Climbing Photo: begining
Rock Climbing Photo: A climber midway on The Nose (5.8).
BETA PHOTO: A climber midway on The Nose (5.8).

Comments on The Nose Add Comment
Show which comments
By JChepes
From: West Ossipee, NH
Sep 16, 2012

Yes! This felt 5.8 to me. Always thought this was 5.6 and was like damn! Beautiful route!
By burlap submariner
Sep 16, 2012

that's what todd swain's old guide said as well, I dont buy it, the moves just getting to the first piece of gear are 5.7R at best, the crux is an awkward step up at the second bolt, beautiful route in a great setting.
By chinos
Sep 18, 2012

i agree with burlap, no 5.6! maybe i was climbing the route wrong but it felt all of 5.8 to me...
By nhclimber
From: Newmarket, NH
Sep 20, 2012

I'll back up that every inch of an .8.
By Brendan Blanchard
From: Boulder, CO
May 9, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

My first 5.8 trad lead, without me even knowing it! I always knew it was stiff, but didn't give it much thought.

Fun route, the bottom can be semi-protected by a red tri-cam in the flaring flake. After a few moves you can lean left and place a small C4 or TCU in a good flake. Maybe not R, but also not your standard protected route.
By Brunt Tornton
From: NH
Sep 19, 2014
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

trad lead...did you just forgo the bolts? last time I did this route I'm pretty sure it was bolted the whole way...unless I was on something else. or perhaps the bolts were chopped?
By Jay Morse
From: Hooksett, New Hampshire
Dec 12, 2015

Really fun, sustained face climbing up an aesthetic feature in a scenic location. Loved the route!

It is 15-20 feet of 5.7 face climbing to the first piece of pro, which is a piton (looked pretty good). There may be marginal trad placements in flaring cracks on the way up to the piton, but I wouldn't count on it. I certainly didn't like anything I tried.

Also, if you start at the obvious belay spot on the launching pad there is really no way for the belayer to anchor in, so the consequences of a fall before clipping the piton would be disastrous for both. I would suggest starting about 15 feet lower so that the leader can get a good piece of pro in to at least protect from the climber and belayer falling off the launch pad. Looked like a #2 or #3 cam?

Regardless, be confident on 5.7 face climbing or don't lead this.

Everything after the piton is well protected. A .5 or #1 cam at the horizontal crack near the top might be nice, but I don't think it's necessary.

There is a two bolt anchor station on a ledge at the top of the route with ovals to rappel. It would be a little sketchy to climb down to this anchor ledge from the top of the cliff, or to climb up from the anchor ledge to the top unprotected, so I would caution someone who's plan is to walk off from the anchors. Nothing harder than a 5.5 move or two, but the consequence of a fall would most likely be death. If you plan to top-rope there are two bomber trees set back 30 or 40 feet from the edge at the top of the cliff that equalize perfectly over the route. It would be a better option that trying to downclimb to the anchors IMO.

All bolts looked shiny and new.

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