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The Northwest Chimney Route
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British PG13
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Routes in Montezuma's Head
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Montezuma's Revenge T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Northwest Chimney Route, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Ricardo Cabeza T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Southwest Face, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13 |
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| Type: | Trad, 5 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 804 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Gunkswest on Jan 31, 2017 |
| Admins: | adrian montaño, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Details
Description
About 100 feet up and to the right (SW) of the north col are a cluster of steep chimneys that are located just above a small cliff band. This route follows one of these chimney/tubes to the mid-height meadow.
P1) Climb one of the chimney/tubes to the meadow (Variation 1). 150 ft; 5.8?
P2) On the NW corner of the tower an obvious ledge system can be seen leading up and left (east). Climb up in the back of an alcove to the ledge, then follow this left past a good ring piton (5.4 traverse move past pin) to another step. Surmount this (bolt & fixed wire), and continue left to a large, sheltered ledge in a corner (sling thread & Friends in pockets for the belay). 100 ft; 5.4
P3) Move left (east) around the corner into a chimney, then straight up lower angled rock (passing a two bolt anchor) to a shallow right leaning corner and the summit. 150 ft; 5.4
V1 It's possible to avoid the initial chimney/tubes by starting about 100 feet further right at the back of a recess. Climb up to a ledge, then traverse out left past a two bolt anchor to the top of the chimney/tubes (5.4).
P1) Climb one of the chimney/tubes to the meadow (Variation 1). 150 ft; 5.8?
P2) On the NW corner of the tower an obvious ledge system can be seen leading up and left (east). Climb up in the back of an alcove to the ledge, then follow this left past a good ring piton (5.4 traverse move past pin) to another step. Surmount this (bolt & fixed wire), and continue left to a large, sheltered ledge in a corner (sling thread & Friends in pockets for the belay). 100 ft; 5.4
P3) Move left (east) around the corner into a chimney, then straight up lower angled rock (passing a two bolt anchor) to a shallow right leaning corner and the summit. 150 ft; 5.4
V1 It's possible to avoid the initial chimney/tubes by starting about 100 feet further right at the back of a recess. Climb up to a ledge, then traverse out left past a two bolt anchor to the top of the chimney/tubes (5.4).
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