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Montezuma's Head
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Montezuma's Revenge T 
Northwest Chimney Route, The T 
Ricardo Cabeza T 
Southwest Face, The T 

The Northwest Chimney Route 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13 [details]
FA: Unknown
Season: winter
Page Views: 39
Submitted By: Gunkswest on Jan 31, 2017

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Description 

About 100 feet up and to the right (SW) of the north col are a cluster of steep chimneys that are located just above a small cliff band. This route follows one of these chimney/tubes to the mid-height meadow.

P1) Climb one of the chimney/tubes to the meadow (Variation 1). 150 ft; 5.8?
P2) On the NW corner of the tower an obvious ledge system can be seen leading up and left (east). Climb up in the back of an alcove to the ledge, then follow this left past a good ring piton (5.4 traverse move past pin) to another step.  Surmount this (bolt & fixed wire), and continue left to a large, sheltered ledge in a corner (sling thread & Friends in pockets for the belay). 100 ft; 5.4
P3) Move left (east) around the corner into a chimney, then straight up lower angled rock (passing a two bolt anchor) to a shallow right leaning corner and the summit. 150 ft; 5.4

V1 It's possible to avoid the initial chimney/tubes by starting about 100 feet further right at the back of a recess. Climb up to a ledge, then traverse out left past a two bolt anchor to the top of the chimney/tubes (5.4).

Location 

About 100 feet up and to the right (SW) of the north col are a cluster of steep chimneys that are located just above a small cliff band. This route follows one of these chimney/tubes to the midheight meadow.

Protection 

Carry a rack up to a blue Camalot and shoulder length slings. Bring webbing or cord to bolster the rappel anchors.


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