Route Guide    Partners    Forum    Photos    What's New    Journal        
Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
The North Walls

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Alaska Highway T 
Astrologger T 
Blood Meridian T 
Calling, The T 
Chilkoot Pass T 
Gone Surfin' T 
High and Dry T 
Nanook T 
New Life T 
NORTH NORTH ARETE T 
North Star T 
Parallel Passages T 
Polaris T 
Public Image T 
Yukon Gold T 
Unsorted Routes:

The North Walls Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 49.6876, -123.1352 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 10,249
Administrators: Nate Ball, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Peter Spindloe on Jun 30, 2008
Forecast:
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: The northern walls of the Chief as seen from Slhan...

Description 

The dark, north facing section of the Chief left of Angel's Crest and the North North Gully holds some of the area's hardest, purest and longest free climbs. Testpieces like Alaska Highway and The Calling make this the realm of the honed. Some slightly more accessible pitches can be found along with some single pitches routes.

The wall is split horizontally at mid-height by the Zodiac ledge, which can be reached by any of the long routes that start from the ground, or by scrambling up from the far left side.

The north facing aspect can make this a cool place in the heat, but also makes it slower to dry and shortens the spring and fall season compared to the rest of the chief. Expect a little extra dirt and munge than other areas on The Chief.

Getting There 

Approach as for Angel's Crest, but once at the base, head up the gully a touch further until you are on a very flat boulder with a cairn indicating a rough trail that heads left under the wall. This area isn't well traveled so the trails are rough and prone to overgrow or be hidden by seasonal debris.

Climbing Season



Weather station 1.5 miles from here

15 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',5],['3 Stars',8],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',2],['5.10',1],['5.11',7],['5.12',4],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in The North Walls

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for The North Walls:
NORTH NORTH ARETE   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 7 pitches, 800'   
Parallel Passages   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 7 pitches, 1000'   
Astrologger   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
New Life   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 5 pitches, 350'   
Alaska Highway   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Trad, 5 pitches, 550'   
Polaris   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, 10 pitches, 1100'   
The Calling   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, 6 pitches, 600'   
North Star   5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in The North Walls

Featured Route For The North Walls
Rock Climbing Photo: Nanook (L) and High and Dry (R)

Nanook 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a  North America : Canada : ... : The North Walls
FA: 11/2013 - Danny Guestrin, Jon Rigg, Ben Stanley, Dave Brown, Dom Ngo, Chris Dinner, Will Kahlert FFA: 05/2016 – Danny Guestrin, Jon Rigg, Laurent JanssenNanook follows steep cracks and corners on the lower-left side of the North Walls. This well-protected route features wild and varied climbing with exciting positions. It was first climbed as a winter adventure and upon reaching the top it was clear this line needed to be cleaned for its free climbing potential.Pitch 1 (5.11d, 30m): Clip a...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Photos of The North Walls Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The north walls of the Chief
The north walls of the Chief

Comments on The North Walls Add Comment
Show which comments
By Dru
Apr 21, 2015
There was a large rockfall on April 19th 2015 from the top of Chilkoot Pass which destroyed the upper sections of routes from The Calling to Yukon Gold. Debris spread across the base and totally destroyed an area stretching from Parallel Passages to the Angels Crest trail. Best to avoid the whole area for now until things stabilize.