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The North Buttress
5.10+ YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 20 ZA E3 5b British PG13
Avg: 2 from 2
votes
Routes in The North Ridge (of Dinosaur Mountain).
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Audiophile T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Beat Down, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Blank Sheets T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Get Down On It T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Idly I De-Ice T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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North Buttress, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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North Ridge, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R |
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| Type: | Trad, 75 ft (23 m) |
| FA: | M. Salazar, T. Bubb (?), 12/1/12 |
| Page Views: | 661 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Dec 2, 2012 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: 2024 Crag Closures & Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures
Details
The usual crags are closed for climbing for raptor nesting:
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
Access Issue: Closed for Raptors Feb 1- Aug 1, annually
Details
See OSMP closures, annually. Closes as for Skunk Canyon Ridge 3/4 and The Dreadnaught.
Description
This is a climb that is more difficult and engaging than it looks.
Great movement outweighs a short section of poor rock before the crux.
Climb up a 10 meter section of right-facing flake (5.8, cams from small to 0.75) to the top, and move left as it runs out onto a ledge (5.8). Work up and left across the ledge on moderate climbing (5.6, 4" piece optional) to just below a roof.
Place some hand sized cams below the roof (red & yellow Camalots + long slings), and get ready for the crux. There was a bit of fixed bail gear (pink tricam + knotted webbing) here that was aged to the point of little worth. The tricam remains as it was corroded in: do not trust it.
Start cranking through the roof on tight sharp jams with really cool movement up and over the lip (5.10+) and get established on high feet up over the roof. Although difficult, it is ideal to have placed a small cam or stopper out just left of the moves here.
Rest up and then head up and left through the diagonal crack to the ridge line (5.10 with blind/difficult placements) and up onto the East Face slab. Go 20' South on the slab to a tree with a red sling to belay. You can back up the tree with a small cam.
To descend, rap from the tree.
Great movement outweighs a short section of poor rock before the crux.
Climb up a 10 meter section of right-facing flake (5.8, cams from small to 0.75) to the top, and move left as it runs out onto a ledge (5.8). Work up and left across the ledge on moderate climbing (5.6, 4" piece optional) to just below a roof.
Place some hand sized cams below the roof (red & yellow Camalots + long slings), and get ready for the crux. There was a bit of fixed bail gear (pink tricam + knotted webbing) here that was aged to the point of little worth. The tricam remains as it was corroded in: do not trust it.
Start cranking through the roof on tight sharp jams with really cool movement up and over the lip (5.10+) and get established on high feet up over the roof. Although difficult, it is ideal to have placed a small cam or stopper out just left of the moves here.
Rest up and then head up and left through the diagonal crack to the ridge line (5.10 with blind/difficult placements) and up onto the East Face slab. Go 20' South on the slab to a tree with a red sling to belay. You can back up the tree with a small cam.
To descend, rap from the tree.
Location
This route lies down low on the North Face of the Northwest ridge of Dinosaur Mountain, very near its true low point, facing Skunk Creek. It starts on a 10 meter tall, right-facing crack and then goes up and diagonally left into a left-leaning, hand and finger crack up over a roof (crux) and vertical face.
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