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The Noir Boulder

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Crack Problem, The 
Not Without Hope  
Shake Junt 
Stone Cold Stunner 
Warmup , The 
Way of the Samurai 

The Noir Boulder Rock Climbing 

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Location: 34.50409, -119.81302 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 2,259
Administrators: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: andy patterson on Apr 14, 2014
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The Noir boulder is a large, nicely featured river boulder that touts a handful of excellent problems, and some extremely difficult projects. In addition, a small collection of diminutive boulders sit in close proximity to the Noir boulder. Expect a somewhat low volume of problems, with very high quality movement. This place has seen a lot of on-again-off-again attention over the years, and it's almost impossible to figure out who did what when. The obvious lines have been done for years, but the harder projects remain (I think) undone. Landings are generally okay, but this stone has some airy and fairly mossy topouts. Clean your exits before sending!

Getting There 

From SB, drive up the 154, and when you get to West Camino Cielo (per all the West Camino bouldering destinations) make a left. Immediately park in pullout. A quick downhill walk in to the creekbed will get you to the goods.

Climbing Season

For the * Santa Barbara Bouldering area.

Weather station 3.5 miles from here

7 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',6],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in The Noir Boulder

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for The Noir Boulder:
Shake Junt   V8 7B     Boulder   
A.C.L.   V10 7C+     Boulder, 12'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in The Noir Boulder

Featured Route For The Noir Boulder
Rock Climbing Photo: Ann Raber dials in the crux

Shake Junt V8 7B  California : Central Coast : ... : The Noir Boulder
Sit start on big pockets. Head straight up with flowingly awesome movement through the crux that is gaining the lip. Hard shoulder moves and big move to the jug will find you standing on top.I had to pick a grade but as more folks do this rig we will gain better understanding of what this line is-could be harder? could be easier?EDIT: there is an alternative (read: significantly easier) finish to Shake Junt as well. Instead of the burly deadpoint to the bucket-jug, finish up and left, using the ...[more]   Browse More Classics in California

Comments on The Noir Boulder Add Comment
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By andy patterson
From: Carpinteria, CA
Apr 26, 2014
While it has fallen in to disuse in recent years (until recently), The Noir boulder has seen lots of attention from key players and psyched boulder-seekers like Russell Erickson (who initially cleaned the boulder), Jason Kamen, Bernd Zeugswetter, and Brian Spiering—to name just a few. Back in 2003 or 2004 (I think) I remember Jason Kamen working some hard traversing lines L-R, and I know for a fact that Bernd did literally every single hard "up" line in the creekbed, including Shake Junt (a la the "high" start... Jackson added the low start when he moved the boulder) and a number of others. I never contributed much to the area, since I was always on my way to Lizard's Mouth or The Brickyard.

Currently, I'm very psyched on this area. It's EXACTLY 12 minutes from my house, and has very nice rock. And kudos to Seth, Jackson, Tyler, et al. You guys are reinvigorating a great spot.

Also of note is Upper Noir, a small cluster of boulders directly uphill from the main Noir Boulder. I'll post more on Upper Noir later, but there is literally one of the best V6ish problems around up there. Here's some old posts of historical interest from the every-psyched Brian Spiering:
By Micah Elconin 1
Feb 21, 2015
I seem to remember seeing video of Jondo doing something at Noir years ago (2008ish?). It was a traverse around a corner into some long up moves? He sent and named whatever it was. I think "samurai" was part of the name and it was v10? Have tried to find the video with no luck. Anyone else remember anything about this? Perhaps it is one of the lines listed here.
By andy patterson
From: Carpinteria, CA
Feb 22, 2015
Micah, I remember that as well. I think it was a traversing problem, but I think it was up the hill at Upper Noir (I could totally be wrong). If you go there, you can find a nice little cave that has an obvious sit-start with an obvious L-R trend, finishing on a crux "up" move. I recall Mr. Dusatko and company meandering up there and establishing problems, and while I think they rated said problem on the steeper side of things, I believe It clocks in around V6 or V7. Hard, but not V10. I should add that it's an unbelievably good line. I haven't posted it because I've been super busy and forgot. Go check it out!

But Jondo COULD have done one of the traversing lines on Noir, as well (Jondo cranked... and he also holds the distinction of being the only V10+ climber to climb too high on the Lizard's Mouth traverse, brake a hold, fall, and brake his ankle). Again, the only established line I know of was Jason's traverse from the far left cave in to the juggy patina warmup. The Kevin Costner Challenge would be the next obvious choice: it has many hard moves and gets within spitting distance of V10. Who knows? I fell out of touch with Jondo, but maybe someone could email Paul.
By Garratt Wilkin
May 12, 2016
Here is the video of Jondo climbing "way of the samurai"

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