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Nipple Wall
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The Nipple Wall 

Hueco: V3 Font: 6A R

Type:  Boulder
Original:  Hueco: V3 Font: 6A R [details]
FA: unknown (Steve Bass ?)
Page Views: 3,485
Submitted By: Old Fart aka Dave Bohn on Apr 13, 2002

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BETA PHOTO: This is the Nipple Wall.


Just south of the North Slabs sits a right-facing dihedral with a tall, broad, clean wall on its right. (It's the second corner S of North Slab, I think.) A fantastic balance line climbs past a few good crimps at the start, pinches a couple of "Nipples" and finishes on sloper dish-pockets. The rock really reminds me of Shelf. The crux is high, moving through the slopers. A good variation that I did "awhile" back is "The Radical Mastectamy": climb the wall without using the two nipples at all.V4/5


Pretty highball, so a spotter might help.

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By dave v
Feb 13, 2008

This is a fantastic problem. Balance and technique, not power. I did it once in '77. Never repeated. Well worth working on!
By Buster Jesik
Jun 9, 2008

If you want to work it out on TR (like I did) you can use a #3 C4, #1 C4, and a #9 BD stopper for an anchor.
By Ricky Newman
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jun 10, 2008
rating: V3 6A PG13

Ughhhhh! Best "V3" problem at Rotary, yet so often overlooked. While the fall from the crux can be intimidating at best, with a big pad or two small ones and a conscious spotter, this problem shouldn't cause any bodily harm. While the R grade may have applied back before the landing was gardened, I don't think it is as applicable today.
By Brett Billings
From: Fort Collins, CO
Mar 13, 2009

This is great problem, really a must do. Like everyone's said, I wouldn't let the landing deter you. I came off 3 or 4 times near the top and landed safely on my pad every time.
By seth0687
From: Fort Collins
May 13, 2009

There is no reason for this to have an R rating IMO.