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Nipple Wall
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The Nipple Wall 

Hueco: V3 Font: 6A R

   
Type:  Boulder
Original:  Hueco: V3 Font: 6A R [details]
FA: unknown (Steve Bass ?)
Page Views: 3,592
Submitted By: Old Fart aka Dave Bohn on Apr 13, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (34)
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BETA PHOTO: This is the Nipple Wall.

Description 

Just south of the North Slabs sits a right-facing dihedral with a tall, broad, clean wall on its right. (It's the second corner S of North Slab, I think.) A fantastic balance line climbs past a few good crimps at the start, pinches a couple of "Nipples" and finishes on sloper dish-pockets. The rock really reminds me of Shelf. The crux is high, moving through the slopers. A good variation that I did "awhile" back is "The Radical Mastectamy": climb the wall without using the two nipples at all.V4/5

Protection 

Pretty highball, so a spotter might help.


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By dave v
Feb 13, 2008

This is a fantastic problem. Balance and technique, not power. I did it once in '77. Never repeated. Well worth working on!
By Buster Jesik
Jun 9, 2008

If you want to work it out on TR (like I did) you can use a #3 C4, #1 C4, and a #9 BD stopper for an anchor.
By Ricky Newman
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jun 10, 2008
rating: V3 6A PG13

Ughhhhh! Best "V3" problem at Rotary, yet so often overlooked. While the fall from the crux can be intimidating at best, with a big pad or two small ones and a conscious spotter, this problem shouldn't cause any bodily harm. While the R grade may have applied back before the landing was gardened, I don't think it is as applicable today.
By Brett Billings
From: Fort Collins, CO
Mar 13, 2009

This is great problem, really a must do. Like everyone's said, I wouldn't let the landing deter you. I came off 3 or 4 times near the top and landed safely on my pad every time.
By seth0687
From: Fort Collins
May 13, 2009

There is no reason for this to have an R rating IMO.
By Christian Eaton
From: Colorado
Apr 6, 2017
rating: V3 6A

Great climb! Off-style from the majority of Rotary climbing. Requires balance and trust of the feet. The fall is so clean. No risk of an unbalanced fall, so only one pad is necessary.

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