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Stettner Rocks
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Back 9 T,TR 
Brothers TR 
Front 9 T,TR 
Joseph T,TR 
Mantle Shelf, The TR 
Niche, The T,TR 
Paul T,TR 
Paul's Variation T,TR 
Paul1 T,TR 
Stettner 16 T,TR 
Stettner 17 ("Corner") TR 
Stettner 7 T,TR 
Unknown T,TR 
Untied Shoes T 
Unsorted Routes:

The Niche 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 30'
Original:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 149
Submitted By: Doug Hemken on Aug 7, 2002

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BETA PHOTO: The Niche is to the right of this dihedral - it ca...

Description 

On the northern outcrop of Stettner Rocks. At the south end of this outcrop, there are two small dihedrals, each about 5-6 feet deep. This route follows the right/north dihedral, next to the pedestal.

Work up the dihedral and into the niche. Reach or stem up to grab the edge to the left. From here there are two finishes. The 5.4/5.5 hand traverses straight left, around the corner and almost around the next corner again. Once you have a good foot, clamber up.

The other finish stems straight up the crack. Scum with your hip, and maybe even sit on the ledge! This is about 5.7, and would be the most obvious way to lead this.

Protection 

Follow hand crack to "Niche" or small over hang. Then exit to the left, via small hand traverse. Medium pro for lead.


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By philip riley
Aug 8, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

Epic devils lake sandbag - pro isn't obvious on lead, and the crux is way way harder than the rest of the route. Top access super easy, so consider rapping down pre-placing a piece in the bomber crack above the crux and then extending to add protection to the top of the niche.

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