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The New Wave Traverse (L to R Girdle of Whitehorse Ledge) 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 23 pitches, 2240', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Mack Johnson Paul Ross (var leads) July 1979
Page Views: 576
Submitted By: USBRIT Ross on Jun 25, 2014

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Description 

This Girdle Traverse from the left to the right end of Whitehorse Ledge that gives a mostly different line to the original 1972 right to left Girdle Traverse .Great trip at a moderate grade across the South Buttress and then the Slab areas of Whitehorse Ledge.

P1)Start on the tree ledge below the bottom right hand corner of the Tranquility Slab,beside a large block.Laybackthe right side of the block then pull overa smalloverhang so get into a thin crack which is followed up and left until it fades out.Continue up the face to a ledge with some small trees. Above the ledge the crack slants back right past a small nitch and onto the halfway terrace. 160' 5.7
P2)Scramble right along the ledge,then down climb easy rock around to the right to reach the niche with small tree at the top of pitch 1 of Inferno.100' 5.2
P3)Down climb Inferno and belay low on the pitch.80'5.7.
P4)Traverse right along easy ledges to the Wonderwall tree ledge. 120'5.4.
P5)From the right of the ledge traverse right under The Upper Wonderwall passing the anchor of Sky Steak to belay by some trees.120'5.4
P6)Continue traversing right to to reach the top of Eradicate Dike. Down climb the dike to to a small tree ledge.110' 5.5
P7) Continue down the Eradicate Dike to a small ledge with some pins about 50' above the ground.100' 5.7R
P8) Here join Childrens Crusade. Follow P1 of Childrans Crusade to the anchor at the top of the pitch.80'5.9
P9) Climb straight up to an overlap (b) . Mantle over the overlap (b),then up short walls and ledges to an anchoe 40'below the final headwall .(P2 Childrens Crusade)100' 5.9
P10)Move out left and climb some flakes to a shallow ramp.Follow the ramp up and left to an anchor in the break below the headwall.(P3 Childrens Crusade) 40' 5.8
P11)Scramble right under the C C headwall passing the anchor of P4 C C ,then move down a level and continue right along a tree ledge to short chimney.130'
P12)Climb the chimney to a higher ledge. 30' 5.5
P13)4th class the ledge rightwards above Echo Roof, continue past Mistaken Identity and down to the right end of the ledges of Dike Route. 300'
P14)Climb straight up the slad (old pins) aiming for an obvious split block with an anchor just above.120' 5.5.
P15)Move out right until below a right slanting arch above the overhang. Pull through the overhang and follow arch out right to reach the tree ledge.80' 5.7
P16)scrample to the right end of the tree ledge. 100'
P17)Down climb the corner system below to an anchor on a ledge.( P6 of Wedge) 100'5.5
P18)Follow the small overlap out right to the belay at the top of P5 Sliding Board.
P19)Continue up the faint dike above the anchor for a few moves then traverse right and move up to a small overlap. Go over the overlap onto a faint dike. Delicate climbing leads to up the dike to an anchor at the base of the steep headwall. 110'5.6R
P20)Step down and traverse out right under the arch to reach the final layback of The Brown Spot pitch of Standard Route.Up this to the belay at the right end of the arch. 100' 5.5
P21)Follow the overlap to its left end,then step left into the prominent dike which is followed to a good ledge with an old tree stump.80' 5.2
P22)Continue up the dike for 100' to a large overlap . Move left around the overlap and continue to a small ledge.150' 5.2
P23)Continue up the dike to past a bolt to the top 150' 5.1 .. Then normally off to the pub.

Location 

Whitehorse Ledge . NH .. Guide Book :- "North Conway Rock Climbs" by Jerry Handren

Protection 

Standard rack . Two 9m ropes were used.


Comments on The New Wave Traverse (L to R Girdle of Whitehorse Ledge) Add Comment
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By Wendel
From: Scottsdale, AZ
Mar 1, 2017

Any suggested way of getting down this? Haven't been to the area so don't know if the summit has a soft side or trail leading back down.
By john strand
From: southern colo
Mar 1, 2017

Normally you will summit the slabs via standard route, then walk down (casual) to the base.

I guess you could rap with 2 ropes down the slabs instead.

The r-l traverse is, IMO a better route
By USBRIT Ross
From: Keswick Cumbria.UK
Mar 1, 2017

Wander off down the trail to the right ... you will survive!! The right to left traverse is probably a better climb.... as John says ...

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