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The New Philanthropists 

YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Rick Thompson, Bob D'Antonio, 2000
Page Views: 1,653
Submitted By: Dave Fleury on Jan 1, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (64)
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Dan tearing it up on lead.


Start with a layback move under a small roof and pull to the left to get the first bolt. You may want a spot for this. Continue up some technical moves for the next two bolts (the first 3 bolts are the crux in my opinion.) Head right onto the arete for some more fun stuff. This mellows out for a bit, but then you hit a small roof. It is a bit reachy, but the holds are there. Continue up to the anchors. I have only top roped this route, but it's a lot of fun.


The New Philantrhopists is to the right of 21st Century Man.


8 bolts.

Eds. note the anchor bolts may be in hollow rock.

Photos of The New Philanthropists Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking quite French.  Photo by Mike Sheridan.
Looking quite French. Photo by Mike Sheridan.

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By jarthur
From: Westminster, CO
Mar 23, 2008

This route was really good. I'm just bummed I missed the onsight on this one. The holds just disappeared after the 3rd clip. A pretty reachy route once your on the arete, but super classic in my opinion.
By Joe Stern
From: Moab, Utah
Feb 16, 2009
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Really fun. My first time I did the opening moves via the apparently standard "layback move under a small roof." Today I started on the face just down and left of the first bolt. Seemed like a good approach for those of us with more technical than powerful inclinations - about the same difficulty, too. Agree that the first 3 bolts are the crux - some balancey moves on good holds that keep your attention. Once on the arete, the climbing is engaging - big holds, some big moves, and picturesque position.
By Kevin Neilson
From: Boulder
Apr 27, 2009

Warning! The two bolt anchors appeared to me and my partner to be on a block of dubious permanence. I'd feel better if the bolt anchors were moved a bit. Otherwise the route is great. The crux is on the face. Traversing right to the arete is a bit tricky and then it eases up. The arete is a lot of fun.
By Guy H.
From: Fort Collins CO
Dec 29, 2013

The anchor bolts are in a hollow flake. A little scary....
By Nate Liles
Oct 25, 2015

Rebolted in 2015 (anchor only). Hardware courtesy of the ASCA. Consider a donation today @
By Julia
Jan 26, 2016

Fun, technical movements, maybe have your belayer wear a helmet.
By Adam Block
From: Colorado Springs, CO
May 18, 2017
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

A V2 into a weird traverse above a branch lead to an exposed & beautiful 5.8 arete with terribly boring mantel moves for 40 feet with lovely rope drag from the beginning. It's two different and varied routes that Frankenstein'ed together to make one weird outing. I guess if you're in the area and have done the other 11s?

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