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The New Philanthropists 

YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Rick Thompson, Bob D'Antonio, 2000
Page Views: 1,546
Submitted By: Dave Fleury on Jan 1, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (57)
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Dan tearing it up on lead.


Start with a layback move under a small roof and pull to the left to get the first bolt. You may want a spot for this. Continue up some technical moves for the next two bolts (the first 3 bolts are the crux in my opinion.) Head right onto the arete for some more fun stuff. This mellows out for a bit, but then you hit a small roof. It is a bit reachy, but the holds are there. Continue up to the anchors. I have only top roped this route, but it's a lot of fun.


The New Philantrhopists is to the right of 21st Century Man.


8 bolts.

Eds. note the anchor bolts may be in hollow rock.

Photos of The New Philanthropists Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking quite French.  Photo by Mike Sheridan.
Looking quite French. Photo by Mike Sheridan.

Comments on The New Philanthropists Add Comment
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By jarthur
From: Westminster, CO
Mar 23, 2008

This route was really good. I'm just bummed I missed the onsight on this one. The holds just disappeared after the 3rd clip. A pretty reachy route once your on the arete, but super classic in my opinion.
By Joe Stern
From: Moab, Utah
Feb 16, 2009
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Really fun. My first time I did the opening moves via the apparently standard "layback move under a small roof." Today I started on the face just down and left of the first bolt. Seemed like a good approach for those of us with more technical than powerful inclinations - about the same difficulty, too. Agree that the first 3 bolts are the crux - some balancey moves on good holds that keep your attention. Once on the arete, the climbing is engaging - big holds, some big moves, and picturesque position.
By Kevin Neilson
From: Boulder
Apr 27, 2009

Warning! The two bolt anchors appeared to me and my partner to be on a block of dubious permanence. I'd feel better if the bolt anchors were moved a bit. Otherwise the route is great. The crux is on the face. Traversing right to the arete is a bit tricky and then it eases up. The arete is a lot of fun.
By Guy H.
From: Fort Collins CO
Dec 29, 2013

The anchor bolts are in a hollow flake. A little scary....
By Nate Liles
Oct 25, 2015

Rebolted in 2015 (anchor only). Hardware courtesy of the ASCA. Consider a donation today @
By JBug
Jan 26, 2016

Fun, technical movements, maybe have your belayer wear a helmet.

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