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North Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Alice in Wonderland S 
All The Kings Horses S 
Chuck If You Want S 
Consolation Prize S 
Final Decade, The S 
Hanging in the Balance S 
Hustler's Roof S 
New Decade, The S 
Poser's Lonely Reunion S 
Rooster Booster S 

The New Decade 

YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Yann Gauthier - 2006
Page Views: 153
Submitted By: Fred Vanden Bergh on Sep 8, 2010

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Description 

The farthest right of the routes just right of the cave, this route shares its start with The Final Decade (10d). After the 2nd bolt, head right up some low angle edging to small overhang and the 1st, reachy crux. Head straight up through technical climbing to an undercling. From here a very thin, balancy crux takes you to the last few easy moves up to the anchor.

Though some of the holds are sharp, this is a fun and satisfying route. 2.5 stars.

Location 

Just around the corner to the left from the North Face's main area (with Poser's Lonely Reunion), you'll find a face with a handful+ of bolted lines. This is the furthest right, and shares its start (and anchor) with the Final Decade, its neighbor to the left.

Protection 

Bolts to a shared (with The Final Decade) 2 bolt chain anchor. Easy to TR and a safe lead.


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