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New Black, The T 
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Unknown 5.9 T 

The New Black 

YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 375'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a PG13 [details]
FA: Chad Suchoski, Mike Cane (2007)
Page Views: 213
Submitted By: Salamanizer suchoski on May 2, 2015

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BETA PHOTO: Topo for The New Black.

Description 

This route takes more or less a strait shot through the center of the main face of Eagle Rock and requires some very thin face climbing skills.

Look for the marker piton at it's base. Begin by climbing the dirty right facing corner until you can make a short traverse right into a low angle arching crack. Place little gear here as it will produce rope drag as you climb higher.
Climb up to a nice short ledge with a bolt. Hand traverse right before climbing back left up a ramp. Several bolts and some gear will bring you to a two bolt anchor out left under a big roof. Be mindful of rope drag, it's a long pitch.

Pitch two climbs a dirty awkward section through the roof then traverses right to a paper thin flake. Thin face moves through the crux lead to a mantle on a big knob, then knob climbing through the headwall to a two bolt anchor on a big ledge.

Pitch three climbs up and left to a big rock scar following a thin crack on the face. Eventually the crack arches out right and up past a few thin knobs on golden granite to the summit block. Traverse left under the block to the bolted anchor.

Location 

Almost dead center of the wall. Requires some scrambling to reach the base.

Protection 

Cams, .3"-3"
Nuts, 1 set.


Photos of The New Black Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: In the shallow corner, .10c stemming.
In the shallow corner, .10c stemming.
Rock Climbing Photo: Mike, thin edging his way up on the F.A.
Mike, thin edging his way up on the F.A.
Rock Climbing Photo: Just after the crux of pitch 1, on the F.A.
Just after the crux of pitch 1, on the F.A.

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