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New-berry Crack, The T 

The New-berry Crack 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Jimmy Newberry / Justin Stirrett
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 881
Submitted By: Justin Stirrett on Nov 4, 2006

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Description 

This route is a 100 feet of pure joy and fear. Old school is the best way to describe this route. It's not a cam route, put them aside save one or two and grab those sick small nuts we all hate. The route starts off in a fingertip crack and works its way up about 40 feet to a roof. This is where things get fun! Your last placement is over ten feet below the roof, and there is no gear until well after you pull the roof. Once you pull the roof, you have over 50 more feet of face climbing with very little pro before the top out.
I learned more about placing pro by following Jimmy on this route than any time in my 18 years of climbing.
The moves are all there and not that hard but the fear of gear sure is.

Location 

The route is on the right hand side of the road as you are driving into the crag. It is just a cross the creek and up a small bank. It starts in a small corner that works its way to a roof. It is easy to pick out form the road and is the only climb of its type there.

Protection 

Take a rack on nuts and make sure you have small sizes for the top. Two or three small cams are good on the bottom half of the climb. You can walk off the route to the left (north) of the climb down a gully or sling a boulder at the top to rap.


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